Removing varnish or poly from stock
- Thread starter ac4142
- Start date
I will be the first one to jump into the deep end and open the can of worms.
Some Czech, East German and Norge re-finished rifles has a similar finish on their stocks. If your rifle is any of the pre-mentioned post-war modifications, I would certainly leave the current finish on the stock.
However, if an all matching rifle, some bolt MM, etc. where someone has decided to simply 'pimp shine' the stock - yes IMHO, I would remove the finish and I would not feel badly doing so. The rifle is no longer in 'an original state' so I wouldn't think that removing the finish would decrease the value and it would certainly improve the appearance of the wood. I would simply consider it a restoration vs. bubba job. If done properly, no one would even know that the stock had every had a shiny finish applied to it in the first place.
Regards
Some Czech, East German and Norge re-finished rifles has a similar finish on their stocks. If your rifle is any of the pre-mentioned post-war modifications, I would certainly leave the current finish on the stock.
However, if an all matching rifle, some bolt MM, etc. where someone has decided to simply 'pimp shine' the stock - yes IMHO, I would remove the finish and I would not feel badly doing so. The rifle is no longer in 'an original state' so I wouldn't think that removing the finish would decrease the value and it would certainly improve the appearance of the wood. I would simply consider it a restoration vs. bubba job. If done properly, no one would even know that the stock had every had a shiny finish applied to it in the first place.
Regards
DIY stock refinishing
USE KLEEN-KUTTER VARNISH, LACQUER, AND SHELLAC REMOVER, FROM HOME DEPOT.
http://www.trfindley.com/pgstkref.html
The result of this process using different finishes:
http://www.trfindley.com/pgwalbir.html
USE KLEEN-KUTTER VARNISH, LACQUER, AND SHELLAC REMOVER, FROM HOME DEPOT.
http://www.trfindley.com/pgstkref.html
The result of this process using different finishes:
http://www.trfindley.com/pgwalbir.html
Last edited:
ac4142
Well-known member
thanks for the info. i see you're from stone mountain. i hope it is still in one piece.
tibi66
Junior Member
Howard feed and wax
After the shellac, give it a bath in hot hot water to see if you can pop out some of those dents. And either Howards feed n wax or linseed oil. I went with the linseed then the feed and wax. You tube and trying it on different woods would be a good choice
After the shellac, give it a bath in hot hot water to see if you can pop out some of those dents. And either Howards feed n wax or linseed oil. I went with the linseed then the feed and wax. You tube and trying it on different woods would be a good choice
S/42
Thunda from down unda
I would try Denatured Alcohol first. If that fails move to acetone. If that fails, leave it alone.
If the acetone works, use a rag only following the grain. Stop immediately you get to wood.
Laminates are a cow to restore. I dislike anything beech and a beech laminate is just the pits.
If the acetone works, use a rag only following the grain. Stop immediately you get to wood.
Laminates are a cow to restore. I dislike anything beech and a beech laminate is just the pits.
ebeeby
Senior Member
For polyurethane, 6-0 (fine) steel wool (use some gun oil as a lubricant) will knock the shine off without fogging the finish. I learned this 20 years ago on Beretta A303 shotguns which came in a high gloss poly. The 6-0 would result in - not exaggerating - what looked liked a hand-rubbed oil finish.
sheepdog
Potential Future Early War Armchair Internet Expe
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This.........although I would try lacquer thinner instead of acetone. Lacquer thinner isn't quite as hot as acetone and doesn't evaporate as quickly. It will remove all but the toughest finishes. When done rub it down liberally with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to remove any left over residue. A laminate stock is something to be careful with and I try to use the least caustic thinner possible.
Stay away from any abrasive and stay away from hot water. A dent is a piece of history, who knows how it got there.
ac4142
Well-known member
ok, thank you.
.....This.
Bigdibbs88
"Ach du lieber!"
Yup. Once you mess up the finish on a laminate stock it will never look right again, so go slow. I would try acetone (you want something that evaporates fast and won’t sink in) and if not try something else...Just my experience anyways. Ultimately your goal is to remove the “extra” with minimal touching/soaking of wood.
Great advice. Lots of times I end up resorting to an antique gel remover for a stubborn finish. I simply apply with a sponge and generally it just flakes off. If you act quickly I don't find that the wood/laminate color changes as many people state. The stock will look dry and thirsty afterwards, this is where a wax, baristol or linseed comes in handy.
heavy_mech
RKI- Reasonably Knowledgable Individual
And this. Always good advice. You can always go hotter if need be. It's like grinding or filing metal. Easy to take too much off; not so easy to put it back.