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Reloading problems

I have just ordered a bore camera which displays on your mobile or laptop as I want to check the condition of the rifling. I am open to any info concerning lighter loads. At the local range I can only shoot a maximum of 50yds. If I shoot factory loads I would most certainly be exceeding the power limit of the range and would most probably annoy the shooters at the side of me. We are a friendly bunch and spend most of the time gassing (talking) than shooting. Trying to put the world to rights. However they won't be to pleased if I am cranking out some high power loads besides them. Most shoot 22 or 38/357 in long barrelled revolvers (they won't allow us to have proper handguns).
nice tool! it will be interesting to find out what the bore looks like. sounds like a great bunch of guys. my local club range is 3-4 miles away, if I hear big guns before I set out, I’ll go another time. The shooting benches are under a corrugated steel roof and it’s quite loud whenever someone is shooting anything bigger than .22lr.
My interest in cast lead low velocity shooting in larger calibers comes from liking venison, almost all the deer I see are @ 30-50 yards range, and I care about collateral damage. I won’t hunt with buckshot, 12 ga slugs are OK but I sold my gun that shoots them (not the O/U bird gun) and I wanted something lethal from 0-200 yards, don’t need more range than that. As a practical matter that’s probably means dangerous to 500yards, but that’s a lot better than 5 miles as marked on boxes of commercial 30-06 rounds here. I don’t have a fancy smart phone, but some phones will support a velocity chronograph app, I’ve seen younger shooters using it at the range. Being able to get quantitative info about your reloads will save time, pence & from being led in the wrong direction by assumptions, at least that has been my experience. Data may be misunderstood, but it never lies.
I think 2400 is a really good place to start, esp if you can get it. A rifle powder that is relatively less dense, one that requires you to compress it for normal high velocity loads, would be ideal, because the reduced load might then just fill your cases. You want a powder that is not “position sensitive”, as some are. (here’s your risk of flashover) If you can identify one from reloading tables that is available to you, then I’d look around for references & recipes using that powder in 8mm. I go first to published (as in paper books) sources, some of the powder makers have online tools as well. I like to shoot recipes that appear to have been tried by more than one living person, if you get my meaning?
I’d target 1200 fps as a starting point, then figure out what I needed to get there. Target .22 lr is ~1050fps, hunting flavors 1350+. PPU 8mm runs 2200-2400 fps, vintage military loads sometimes considerably faster.

If you can find a used chonograph reasonably priced, buy it. I bought a used ‘Chrony Beta’ (Canadian made, old tech elex) for $60US on ebay. Having one will make you popular with your mates at the range.

have fun!
 
I have just pushed a soft head down the barrel and it measures .319" or 8.11mm diameter. So the barrel diameter appears to be correct (please correct me if I am wrong). The slug travelled down the barrel smoothly without any tight or loose spots. I'm glad that the barrel seems to be OK as it was starting to worry me a little thinking that I may have bought a shot out barrel.
is your .319 measurement a maximum or minimum for the slug? im assuming its the minimum or “lands” measurement. the one to work off of is the maximum or “ groove“ size. If your “groove“ size is .319 theres something odd going on, and most likely the barrels not a ww2 k98 barrel and you need a much smaller bullet. you want ur bullets sized .001 over the groove dimension.

2400 is well liked since it isnt considered position sensitive. heres a good read…i have been using this article as my starting point for decades of cast loading

CAST BULLET LOADS FOR MILITARY RIFLES

Cast bullets can make shooting that surplus rifle easy and economical.
And basic data works for many different guns.

BY C.E. Harris

Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at 100 yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go! Do not use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading. Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7mm to 8mm:

1. 125 grain plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

2. 150 grain plain based "100-yard target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

3. 170-180 grain gas checked "200 yard target", 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grains of Hercules #2400 or equivalent.

4. 180-200 grain gas-checked "deer/600 yard target", 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grains of RL-7 or equivalent.

None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the 30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R Russian , or 30-06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7mm or larger, with a standard weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8mm. For bores smaller than 7mm, consult published data.

The Small Game or Gallery" Load

The 110-115 grain bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #3118, #311008, #311359, or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily available .30 caliber cast small game bullet of the proper 125-130 grain weight. LBT makes a 130 grain flat-nosed gas-check bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver.

The "100 Yard Target and Small Game" Load

I use Mattern's plain-based "100 yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100 yard practice. I substitute my usual gas-checked bullets, but without the gas-check. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble-lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs.

Bullets I intend for plain based loads are blunted using a flat-nosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gas-checked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets.

Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for remelting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain base plinkers. Bullets which are visually perfect are weighed and sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain for use in 200 yard matches. Gas checks are pressed onto bullet bases by hand prior to running into the lubricator-sizer. For gas-check bullets loaded without the gas- checks, for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and 30-06, I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning powder. These include, but are not limited to Bullseye, WW231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium rate burning pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British or larger.

In the 7.62x39 case, use no more than 4 grains of the fast burning powders mentioned or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. Theses make accurate 50 yard small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold.

Repeated loading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No. 39 drill bit to 0.099" diameter. Cases which are so modified must never be used with full powered loads! Always identify cases which are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim and labeling them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason on I prefer to do my plain based practice shooting in rimmed cases like the 30-30, 30-40 Krag, 303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation.

The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise

Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his 100 yard target load because this was common with the lead bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non gas- checked bullets in military rifles at lower velocities approaching match grade .22 long rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100 yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. It's report is only a modest "pop" rather than a "crack".

If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy. If this doesn't work, try a bullet which is more blunt and short for its weight because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gas-checked bullet and a heavier load.


The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200 yard Target"

My favorite load is the most accurate. Mattern's so-called "200 yard target load." I expect 10 shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high Sharpshooter, low Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using may cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the 32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards. Mattern's "200 yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones, such as linotype. Local military collector-shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180 grain cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as high power competitors use 168 Sierra Match Kings and 4895.

The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load, and which must not be exceeded, is in the tiny 7.63x39mm case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee 312-155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 caliber rifle.

Sixteen Grains of #2400 is the Universal Load

The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a 30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a 30-06 or 7.9x57, with standard weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullets loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not "position sensitive", requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than tipping the muzzle up to position the powder charge.

Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to 30-06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400, you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grains of 4198, 21 grains of Reloder 7, 24 grains of IMR 3031, or 25.5 grains of 4895 for comparable results.

However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost always the best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it.

The beauty of the "200 yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled from bullets cast from the cheapest, inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It always works. Leading is never a problem. Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent.

The only thing I do after a day's shooting with this load is to swab the bore with a couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It takes only about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again.

"Deer and Long Range Target Load"

Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of 30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to 30-06 using 18-21 grains of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grains of 4198, 25-28 grains of RL-7 or 27-30 grains of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the 303 British without cross checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range only as necessary to get best grouping.

Popular folklore suggests a barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent.

I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is to remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting and under 1600 f.p.s. for target work.

A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber throat properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s.

The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a 30-06, .312" for a 7.63x54R and .314" for a .303 British.

"Oversized 30's", like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, and 7.62x39 Russian frequently give poor accuracy with .30 caliber cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions. This is because the part of the bullet ahead of the driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrel s of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet, nose first, into the muzzle. If it enters clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory.

The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results.

Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to .011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance.

Bullets with a large forepart, like the Lee 312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best with the 7.62x54R because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 caliber gas-checks are correct.

Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter. (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters of .310 -.3115".

In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my score!

So now you have enough fundamentals to get started. If you want to have fun, give that old military rifle a try. You'll never know the fun you've been missing until you try it!
 
nice tool! it will be interesting to find out what the bore looks like. sounds like a great bunch of guys. my local club range is 3-4 miles away, if I hear big guns before I set out, I’ll go another time. The shooting benches are under a corrugated steel roof and it’s quite loud whenever someone is shooting anything bigger than .22lr.
My interest in cast lead low velocity shooting in larger calibers comes from liking venison, almost all the deer I see are @ 30-50 yards range, and I care about collateral damage. I won’t hunt with buckshot, 12 ga slugs are OK but I sold my gun that shoots them (not the O/U bird gun) and I wanted something lethal from 0-200 yards, don’t need more range than that. As a practical matter that’s probably means dangerous to 500yards, but that’s a lot better than 5 miles as marked on boxes of commercial 30-06 rounds here. I don’t have a fancy smart phone, but some phones will support a velocity chronograph app, I’ve seen younger shooters using it at the range. Being able to get quantitative info about your reloads will save time, pence & from being led in the wrong direction by assumptions, at least that has been my experience. Data may be misunderstood, but it never lies.
I think 2400 is a really good place to start, esp if you can get it. A rifle powder that is relatively less dense, one that requires you to compress it for normal high velocity loads, would be ideal, because the reduced load might then just fill your cases. You want a powder that is not “position sensitive”, as some are. (here’s your risk of flashover) If you can identify one from reloading tables that is available to you, then I’d look around for references & recipes using that powder in 8mm. I go first to published (as in paper books) sources, some of the powder makers have online tools as well. I like to shoot recipes that appear to have been tried by more than one living person, if you get my meaning?
I’d target 1200 fps as a starting point, then figure out what I needed to get there. Target .22 lr is ~1050fps, hunting flavors 1350+. PPU 8mm runs 2200-2400 fps, vintage military loads sometimes considerably faster.

If you can find a used chonograph reasonably priced, buy it. I bought a used ‘Chrony Beta’ (Canadian made, old tech elex) for $60US on ebay. Having one will make you popular with your mates at the range.

have fun!
Thanks for your reply. As yourself my range is about 4 miles away. It is a 50yd outdoor range located on an old railway line. We have a small wooden hut with a woodburner for the cold days. Apart from keeping us warm it's also great for toasting your sandwiches or heating up your pies. We have 4 covered firing points with heavy duty bench rest type tables. It's really a cosy little range. At this point of loading for the k98 I have only been using 2400. Someone informed me that Unique is really good in the reduced loads. I have a few reloading data books but they mainly cater for fmj loads. Researching threads on the internet 18gn of 2400 appears to be the best load. Unfortunately my shoots very badly at this load. I need to purchase some gas checks as I have only shot non gc lead heads. The availability of used shooting accessories are far greater in the US. We seem to be pretty limited over here. I am very much a believer in using enough powder to do the job. If I can find a greatly reduced load with sufficient accuracy and power for 50yds I will jump at it. As stated in a previous reply I was getting worried that I had bought a k98 with a worn out barrel. Measuring the head driven down the barrel it measured .319". That seems a little tight as most books/internet states the bore size as .323. It's not a big difference in fact two thou either side of the head. Driving the soft head through the barrel was relatively easy so I don't think the smaller bore would create a problem with accuracy. The chap I bought the rifle from only ever used in the re enactment scene and never actually live fired it. So he couldn't give me any info on loads or accuracy.
 
is your .319 measurement a maximum or minimum for the slug? im assuming its the minimum or “lands” measurement. the one to work off of is the maximum or “ groove“ size. If your “groove“ size is .319 theres something odd going on, and most likely the barrels not a ww2 k98 barrel and you need a much smaller bullet. you want ur bullets sized .001 over the groove dimension.

2400 is well liked since it isnt considered position sensitive. heres a good read…i have been using this article as my starting point for decades of cast loading

CAST BULLET LOADS FOR MILITARY RIFLES

Cast bullets can make shooting that surplus rifle easy and economical.
And basic data works for many different guns.

BY C.E. Harris

Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at 100 yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go! Do not use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading. Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7mm to 8mm:

1. 125 grain plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

2. 150 grain plain based "100-yard target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

3. 170-180 grain gas checked "200 yard target", 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grains of Hercules #2400 or equivalent.

4. 180-200 grain gas-checked "deer/600 yard target", 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grains of RL-7 or equivalent.

None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the 30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R Russian , or 30-06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7mm or larger, with a standard weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8mm. For bores smaller than 7mm, consult published data.

The Small Game or Gallery" Load

The 110-115 grain bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #3118, #311008, #311359, or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily available .30 caliber cast small game bullet of the proper 125-130 grain weight. LBT makes a 130 grain flat-nosed gas-check bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver.

The "100 Yard Target and Small Game" Load

I use Mattern's plain-based "100 yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100 yard practice. I substitute my usual gas-checked bullets, but without the gas-check. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble-lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs.

Bullets I intend for plain based loads are blunted using a flat-nosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gas-checked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets.

Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for remelting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain base plinkers. Bullets which are visually perfect are weighed and sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain for use in 200 yard matches. Gas checks are pressed onto bullet bases by hand prior to running into the lubricator-sizer. For gas-check bullets loaded without the gas- checks, for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and 30-06, I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning powder. These include, but are not limited to Bullseye, WW231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium rate burning pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British or larger.

In the 7.62x39 case, use no more than 4 grains of the fast burning powders mentioned or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. Theses make accurate 50 yard small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold.

Repeated loading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No. 39 drill bit to 0.099" diameter. Cases which are so modified must never be used with full powered loads! Always identify cases which are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim and labeling them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason on I prefer to do my plain based practice shooting in rimmed cases like the 30-30, 30-40 Krag, 303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation.

The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise

Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his 100 yard target load because this was common with the lead bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non gas- checked bullets in military rifles at lower velocities approaching match grade .22 long rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100 yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. It's report is only a modest "pop" rather than a "crack".

If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy. If this doesn't work, try a bullet which is more blunt and short for its weight because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gas-checked bullet and a heavier load.


The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200 yard Target"

My favorite load is the most accurate. Mattern's so-called "200 yard target load." I expect 10 shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high Sharpshooter, low Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using may cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the 32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards. Mattern's "200 yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones, such as linotype. Local military collector-shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180 grain cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as high power competitors use 168 Sierra Match Kings and 4895.

The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load, and which must not be exceeded, is in the tiny 7.63x39mm case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee 312-155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 caliber rifle.

Sixteen Grains of #2400 is the Universal Load

The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a 30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a 30-06 or 7.9x57, with standard weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullets loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not "position sensitive", requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than tipping the muzzle up to position the powder charge.

Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to 30-06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400, you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grains of 4198, 21 grains of Reloder 7, 24 grains of IMR 3031, or 25.5 grains of 4895 for comparable results.

However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost always the best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it.

The beauty of the "200 yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled from bullets cast from the cheapest, inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It always works. Leading is never a problem. Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent.

The only thing I do after a day's shooting with this load is to swab the bore with a couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It takes only about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again.

"Deer and Long Range Target Load"

Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of 30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to 30-06 using 18-21 grains of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grains of 4198, 25-28 grains of RL-7 or 27-30 grains of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the 303 British without cross checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range only as necessary to get best grouping.

Popular folklore suggests a barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent.

I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is to remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting and under 1600 f.p.s. for target work.

A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber throat properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s.

The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a 30-06, .312" for a 7.63x54R and .314" for a .303 British.

"Oversized 30's", like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, and 7.62x39 Russian frequently give poor accuracy with .30 caliber cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions. This is because the part of the bullet ahead of the driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrel s of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet, nose first, into the muzzle. If it enters clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory.

The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results.

Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to .011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance.

Bullets with a large forepart, like the Lee 312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best with the 7.62x54R because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 caliber gas-checks are correct.

Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter. (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters of .310 -.3115".

In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my score!

So now you have enough fundamentals to get started. If you want to have fun, give that old military rifle a try. You'll never know the fun you've been missing until you try it!
Wow. That's a lot of information to digest. I will have to read your reply a few times before it sinks in. The measurement of .319" was taken using a metric micrometer and converting it to imperial. It was measured on the larger diameter as I do not have a tool (vernier) to measure across the groves. I have cast a few my soft heads and will drive a few down the barrel tomorrow to see if they measure consistently, I have photos of the k98 on another listing in the Forum Advice section. The barrel is clearly marked bnz 44. I don't think that it has been faked or been replaced. I will let you know or confirm the barrel diameter tomorrow.
 
I buy my cast bullets, but when I ran a series using cast bullets and the same powder in the summer of 2020, I started at 15.8 gn behind a 205 gn poly coated bullet (no gas check)of 22 BHN sized @ .324”. I encountered leading near the muzzle after a series of 10 rounds, avg velocity was 1430 fps. Because I was shooting through a chronometer, I focused more on not shooting the device than my target, but IIRC, the results were similar to your own. I didnt miss the backstop @ 50 yds. My series progressed through 19.0 gn, results did not improve, velocity increased to 1625 fps. I haven’t gone back to that project, but my notes indicate that I might try the same bullet with smaller loads to pull the muzzle velocity down to around 1200 fps. 12 gn, 13 gn, 14 gn, 5 cartridges each step. Check target for accuracy & bronze brush the bore between each group to check for & remove lead fouling.
if you like, I could scan & send my chrono log sheets to your private email, lots of info there. (may take a few days to do it)
Thank you for you reply. I think that reducing my loads in the region of 12gn is the way forward. Driving a soft head down the barrel it measured .319" using a micrometer on the larger diameter. Most information states .323" bore size. I'm not sure how this is measured. I am casting from a Lee mould at .324" 175gn. The soft head was easy to drive down the barrel with no tight areas. Thinking if the barrel was too tight the head would be hard to drive through the rifling. I will brush out the barrel as advised between 5 shots. I really need to get a supply of linotype. I might give 10% of pewter with scrap lead a try as well. I know that I will find the right cast and powder weight in the end. Thanks for your kind offer re your chrono data. I would rather keep my email address unpublished.
 
Thank you for you reply. I think that reducing my loads in the region of 12gn is the way forward. Driving a soft head down the barrel it measured .319" using a micrometer on the larger diameter. Most information states .323" bore size. I'm not sure how this is measured. I am casting from a Lee mould at .324" 175gn. The soft head was easy to drive down the barrel with no tight areas. Thinking if the barrel was too tight the head would be hard to drive through the rifling. I will brush out the barrel as advised between 5 shots. I really need to get a supply of linotype. I might give 10% of pewter with scrap lead a try as well. I know that I will find the right cast and powder weight in the end. Thanks for your kind offer re your chrono data. I would rather keep my email address unpublished.
I understand, sent you a PM.
 
Hi. Trying to find how to pm you. Do I go on your profile and message you under the "start conversation" part?
yes, exactly OR at the top of the page, to the right of your user ID, you’ll notice an envelope icon, when someone else sends you a PM, a little red square lights up, has a number inside it ( the number of pms waiting for you to answer) click on that, a menu box appears listing who & what about the messages, select one to answer a pm. There should be one there from me from yesterday.
 
yes, exactly OR at the top of the page, to the right of your user ID, you’ll notice an envelope icon, when someone else sends you a PM, a little red square lights up, has a number inside it ( the number of pms waiting for you to answer) click on that, a menu box appears listing who & what about the messages, select one to answer a pm. There should be one there from me from yesterday.
Hi. Thank you. Just put a couple of recently cast soft heads down the barrel and they now measure 8.2mm or a fraction under .323" dia across the larger diameter. So my reckoning the bore is spot on.
 
nice tool! it will be interesting to find out what the bore looks like.

They're great tools, but don't get over-reliant on them. I've got one and it's really good for checking specific interior bore conditions (copper fouling, and especially checking on gas port erosion), or checking on throat/bore condition on newer guns where you know the round count, but looking down pretty much any military surplus barrel can be a bit of a shock.

I've got a few surplus guns that I shoot pretty regularly and pretty well that look really bad in the scope. I'd focus less on how they look and more on how they perform. I'll see if I can find some old pictures to give you an idea, but I lost a bunch in a hard drive failure a while back so I might not have them on hand.
 
A bit of an update on my reloads. I am still not getting the desired grouping on my cast reloads. I am mainly using 2400 with 180 gn Lee cast heads. As I am only shooting a short distance (50 yds) I am down loading the rounds. My last batch was a selection of 8 to 10 gns of 2400. I starting to see an improved group at 9 gns but not way near being desirable. I did also load a batch of 10 gn of Unique which had similar results as the 9 gn of 2400. I will play around with the Unique loads to try to improve the groups. I have vey little history about my 1944 bnz apart from the guy I bought if from only used it as an re enactor and never fired live round down it for at least 10 years. Although the rifling, chamber and crown appear to be in good order and the pressed soft slugs are measuring the correct diameter without any noticeable tight spots, I am now leaning towards a possible worn barrel. I have yet to fire factory loads down the barrel to confirm my theory. Factory ammo are difficult to source in the UK due to transportation issues and supply. I think that I might have to get it checked by my local gunsmith. Can anyone advise me on the way forward?
 
Now I am really stumped. I purchased some factory ammo and took it to the range today. The grouping was awful. At 50 yds I could even hit a man sized target. The rounds were going everywhere other than the target. The rounds were hitting the butts around 11 inches high and about 20 inches apart. I only shot 4 rounds and gave up. I will be taking the rifle to an gunsmith for his examination. I really can't think of anything else to do. The only thing I can think of is the bedding of the barrel is at fault. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Now I am really stumped. I purchased some factory ammo and took it to the range today. The grouping was awful. At 50 yds I could even hit a man sized target. The rounds were going everywhere other than the target. The rounds were hitting the butts around 11 inches high and about 20 inches apart. I only shot 4 rounds and gave up. I will be taking the rifle to an gunsmith for his examination. I really can't think of anything else to do. The only thing I can think of is the bedding of the barrel is at fault. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Bedding is a possibility, but honestly I doubt it. If the bedding is that shot that it is directly causing a spread like that you're going to notice some play. I've had a gun's accuracy go to shite when the action screws started backing out under recoil (RC K98k without the capture screws) but even then we're talking opening up to 4 or 5 inches at 50 yards, not 11. And in that case I noticed it because I could shift the action up and down with my hand. Because, you know, the screws holding it in had backed out enough that it was wobbling in the stock. (edit 3: blue locktite is your friend if you've got guns that don't have capture screws. That, or just buying capture screws. They're cheap).

I'm assuming all these groups are off a bench?

Check the crown for damage. In my experience when a gun is performing that terribly it's usually crown damage. I've got a Gew98 that patterns like a shotgun and if you inspect the muzzle and crown it's both eroded and has a gnarly chip in a corner. Similar story for an old model Ruger Single Six that I got cheap because a garage "gunsmith" decided to "improve it" with a soldering iron and hack saw. Didn't shoot worth a damn at all until I recrowned it.

Just to be sure, what kind of "factory ammo." I'm assuming new production commercial?

edit: oh and you were trying to do lead bullet handloads earlier. I'm assuming that the barrel was cleaned and it isn't leadded up, right? That can cause some funky stuff.

edit 2: if your gunsmith tells you to re-bed the rifle come back here for advice first. I've known more than a few gunsmiths who would be more than happy to wreck a good (in collector's terms) stock by breaking out the acraglass to "improve" it. Even if the stock is to blame chances are there are people here who can give you some advice on other steps than a full rebed.
 
Bedding is a possibility, but honestly I doubt it. If the bedding is that shot that it is directly causing a spread like that you're going to notice some play. I've had a gun's accuracy go to shite when the action screws started backing out under recoil (RC K98k without the capture screws) but even then we're talking opening up to 4 or 5 inches at 50 yards, not 11. And in that case I noticed it because I could shift the action up and down with my hand. Because, you know, the screws holding it in had backed out enough that it was wobbling in the stock. (edit 3: blue locktite is your friend if you've got guns that don't have capture screws. That, or just buying capture screws. They're cheap).

I'm assuming all these groups are off a bench?

Check the crown for damage. In my experience when a gun is performing that terribly it's usually crown damage. I've got a Gew98 that patterns like a shotgun and if you inspect the muzzle and crown it's both eroded and has a gnarly chip in a corner. Similar story for an old model Ruger Single Six that I got cheap because a garage "gunsmith" decided to "improve it" with a soldering iron and hack saw. Didn't shoot worth a damn at all until I recrowned it.

Just to be sure, what kind of "factory ammo." I'm assuming new production commercial?

edit: oh and you were trying to do lead bullet handloads earlier. I'm assuming that the barrel was cleaned and it isn't leadded up, right? That can cause some funky stuff.

edit 2: if your gunsmith tells you to re-bed the rifle come back here for advice first. I've known more than a few gunsmiths who would be more than happy to wreck a good (in collector's terms) stock by breaking out the acraglass to "improve" it. Even if the stock is to blame chances are there are people here who can give you some advice on other steps than a full rebed.
Thank you for your reply. As stated in my earlier replies I purchased this rifle form a private seller who had never fired a live round through it. He used it purely as a re enactor rifle, so couldn't give me any info regarding how it shot. I have been reloading cast heads using an array of powder loads which were not grouping at all hence buying some factory ammo. Commercial ammunition for this calibre is difficult to source in the UK but manged to get some 8mm x 57 Privi Partisan. I shot 4 rounds down the range and gave up due to the rifles performance. I don't think that it is a leading problem as all my cast loads have shot badly even with rodding the barrel between shots. I have inspected the rifling which appears to be crisp. I have also drifted a soft head down the barrel and measured the OD which is .323/4". This appears to be the correct size. There are no visible signs of damage to the crown but when inserting a lead head into the barrel at the muzzle end it goes in approximately half its length before becoming tight. I don't know if that is correct. I haven't physically checked the retaining screws but they appear to be tight and the locking screws are present. There is no play in the barrel to furniture connection. I tend to agree that crowning may be the problem.
 
Thank you for your reply. As stated in my earlier replies I purchased this rifle form a private seller who had never fired a live round through it. He used it purely as a re enactor rifle, so couldn't give me any info regarding how it shot. I have been reloading cast heads using an array of powder loads which were not grouping at all hence buying some factory ammo. Commercial ammunition for this calibre is difficult to source in the UK but manged to get some 8mm x 57 Privi Partisan. I shot 4 rounds down the range and gave up due to the rifles performance. I don't think that it is a leading problem as all my cast loads have shot badly even with rodding the barrel between shots. I have inspected the rifling which appears to be crisp. I have also drifted a soft head down the barrel and measured the OD which is .323/4". This appears to be the correct size. There are no visible signs of damage to the crown but when inserting a lead head into the barrel at the muzzle end it goes in approximately half its length before becoming tight. I don't know if that is correct. I haven't physically checked the retaining screws but they appear to be tight and the locking screws are present. There is no play in the barrel to furniture connection. I tend to agree that crowning may be the problem.

Swallowing about half a bullet is about right for muzzle erosion.

If it's shooting that poorly my guess is that the crown is somehow damaged. Was the gun modified in any way for blank firing? Did the reenactor use blanks at all? Was the gun modified in any way to not permit the feeding of live ammo while reenacting (not uncommon).

Check around the crown for signs of damage.
 
Swallowing about half a bullet is about right for muzzle erosion.

If it's shooting that poorly my guess is that the crown is somehow damaged. Was the gun modified in any way for blank firing? Did the reenactor use blanks at all? Was the gun modified in any way to not permit the feeding of live ammo while reenacting (not uncommon).

Check around the crown for signs of damage.
I'm not too sure but would imagine that the seller used blanks in the rifle. It has not been modified not to shoot live ammo. When I drifted the barrel with a soft head the pressure of of the slug in the barrel was constant which indicates no bulges or worn rifling. I wasn't sure about head entering the barrel half way but suspected that there may be erosion at the tip of the muzzle. I will measure the muzzle tomorrow and compare it with the bore size which should hopefully indicate the problem. If there happens to be erosion at the muzzle. Is this easily repairable by a gunsmith?
 
I've been reloading since 1973 and cast my own for handguns.
I gave up on casting bullets for anything traveling over 1,000 FPS. I went to jacketed and never looked back.
 
I'm not too sure but would imagine that the seller used blanks in the rifle. It has not been modified not to shoot live ammo. When I drifted the barrel with a soft head the pressure of of the slug in the barrel was constant which indicates no bulges or worn rifling. I wasn't sure about head entering the barrel half way but suspected that there may be erosion at the tip of the muzzle. I will measure the muzzle tomorrow and compare it with the bore size which should hopefully indicate the problem. If there happens to be erosion at the muzzle. Is this easily repairable by a gunsmith?

Depends on how original you want to leave the rifle.

The repair for a screwed up crown is to either re-crown it or counter-bore the rifle. In the latter you drill out the last few inches of the barrel, essentially cutting the rifling back and creating a new crown on the inside of the barrel.

Neither of these are things I'd do to a collectable, original condition rifle. But a mixmaster shooter? Sure.
 
Depends on how original you want to leave the rifle.

The repair for a screwed up crown is to either re-crown it or counter-bore the rifle. In the latter you drill out the last few inches of the barrel, essentially cutting the rifling back and creating a new crown on the inside of the barrel.

Neither of these are things I'd do to a collectable, original condition rifle. But a mixmaster shooter? Sure.
Obviously I would like to leave the rifle as much as original as possible but would also like a rifle that I can get consistent grouping. I purchased this k98 to use down the range and also to have a piece of history. The weapon appears to be in really good order with good blueing on the metal parts and good woodwork. Unfortunately some of the parts are mismatched with the bolt serial number differing from the chamber and barrel. That being said as I had intended to keep the rifle and start up a collection of 2nd world war b/a rifles I would be inclined to get the crown recessed so that I could at least be confident with it down the range. I am sure that the seller was unaware of any problems and by its use would not have accounted any accuracy issues. Firstly I will have to confirm that the crown is this problem (most likely) and then decide the way forward. I purchased this k98 in the UK because I have another one in Normandy which was a barn find on my property. That is an earlier bnz 1943 with all matching numbers but is showing its age being stored in an attic. The metalwork has lost its blueing and has slight surface rust. The glue on the laminate stock has been eaten away slightly which has left slight ripples on the finish. This weapon does live fire although due to its condition it has only been fired remotely. I did enquire about shipping it over to the UK but it has become more difficult due to Brexit and the paperwork required.
 
Got to examine the bore today. The crown shows no signs of damage and I retried placing the lead head into the bore at the muzzle end. I got it wrong when I said that it went half way down the slug. This time I reversed the head so that it entered by the base. It only went in to the first flux grove a distance of approximately3 to 4mm. Checking the barrel with a bore light the rifling appeared to be faint (possibly filled with lead fouling). I spent a good half hour cleaning the bore with a bronze brush. barrel cleaner/lead remover and many, many patches. It took ages before the patches started to come clean. The bore is shinny now and I will be taking it to the range tomorrow to see if the grouping has improved. Wish me luck.
 

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