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K98 Sniper Clone Thread- All things repro sniper

Looking for some advice on my 1942 J.P. Sauer “i” block build. Reading the k98 book offers some interesting information on the matter but I figured I’d make a fourm post to get some more opinions.

First off, which mount should I use type/brand? I want the mount to be good quality and accurate to the period of my rifle. The k98 book explains that Sauer first used the type 2 ssr mount but then switched to the type 3 later because it was more durable. It also mentions that earlier rifles were depot upgraded to the type 3. Would I be technically correct then by adding a type 3 mount to my gun from the start?

Secondly, who can drill and tap my rifle for me? I want it professionally done, no hack job morons touching my rifle. Looking for good recommendation, and possible photos and customer testimonial to back up their work. If one of you here can do it, all the better.

Next, I plan to properly inlet the stock, the way sauer did to allow the mount to be attached without cutting a section of the stock away. I can do this myself but I will take any advice you fine gentlemen would like to offer.

Lastly, I’m in search of a period correct scope, no repro junk. If any of you have reccomendations of scopes to use, or leads to a scope please let me know. Also, was sauer using the checkered “sniper” butplate at the time they were building SSRs?

I plan to fully document this rifle here as to not all someone to opportunity to easily sell this as original, in the event I ever need to sell it. Hopefully properly documented pictures and serial numbers that can be referenced will reduce the possibility of this happening
 
So it's not really that close to a K98 sniper rifle but it will do for now. It's a Czech made K98 that was sadly converted to 7.62x51 after the war. Only good thing about that is 308 ammo is easy enough to get whereas you can't find 8mm mauser to save your life up here. Paid about $777 USD for it ($1000 CDN).

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Well at that price point you can't touch anything real German so I think you did well. Being Israeli used and in 7.62 could also be considered a plus. Bore looks good too. Congrats!
 
Well You did spectacularly well , mainly because the Zeiss Zielvier thats on Your rifle is an PERIOD ORIGINAL SINGLE CLAW Zeiss Zielveir Sniper Scope .
Scope IMHO is worth $1500 to $2000 USD . Great Buy go buy a Power Ball lottery ticket now !!!!!!!
 
Talk about luck! Don't bother with the lottery ticket - you burned up your luck when you got the rifle!
 
I can only concur with Dave. Usually the Steyr Single Claw K98k sniper rifles came with bmj+ coded scopes made by Hensoldt, there though is a very small block of Zeiss Zielvier scopes which were used on the same Single Claw mount too. They are within that 81.XXX serial block and all share the triangle above the Zeiss Logo. That is a very rare scope you have there.
 
Can anyone reccomend a proper SSR mount for a 1942 J.P. Sauer.

I’m also looking for someone to properly install it.
 
Don't know the best place to get a mount but Vaughn99 is the best guy to install it. And he may have something. Search his username here.
 
I have been searching for a rifle as a base to do a sniper conversion and I came across this already converted rifle(I'm assuming it's not a real sniper).

Can someone with some serious knowledge on these take a look and give your opinion. I have compared it side by side to a real one that's posted here and the mount appears ever so slightly different than a 'real' one. The scope also looks too clean and new to be an original, it is also missing the 'carl zeiss' on the top of the scope.

It looks to have been done correctly but again I'm not an expert.

Thanks in advance for any info
 

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It is a reproduction scope on a reproduction mount and base. I'm though not sure if someone killed one of the rarest coded K98k rifles (bcd45) out there for this build, or if possibly the base rifle is a real LSR action. You'd at least need to pull the stock to show more, or take a picture from back in the thumbhole to see if it was a thick reaceiver.
 
It is a reproduction scope on a reproduction mount and base. I'm though not sure if someone killed one of the rarest coded K98k rifles (bcd45) out there for this build, or if possibly the base rifle is a real LSR action. You'd at least need to pull the stock to show more, or take a picture from back in the thumbhole to see if it was a thick reaceiver.
How much do you think it affects the value? I know for collectibility ideally you wouldn't do this. I'm guessing since it wasn't matching numbers the person just decided to have it done.

Since I am looking for a donor rifle anyway to have this done to it is appealing to me to save time and money if I can get it at the right price.

My only concern is if it was done properly. From what I can see it looks like they did a decent job but ideally you would want to see it in person and get hands on.

I would also prefer to have some authentic rails and scope for it eventually.
 
I personally would not want 1/2 real sniper. Once a collectible weapon is toyed with, it’s just that sadly. If I were looking for a shooter, I would first look at the most readily available ammunition. 10 years ago it was not an issue. Now it is. If you have to have a Mauser sniper, I personally would not shoot a real matching one unless it is a restoration with restoration parts. If you can’t find that; get a donor rifle, and build a HT sniper. Reproduction mounts and rings are available. Make sure the bore is good. The optic is key. Don’t skimp if you are shooting vintage sniper matches. If you are just going to do reenactment deals then, doesn’t matter.
Btw if you are wanting to shoot vintage sniper games; the 03A4 or the pu snipers are good prices still and very effective weapons. If you have expendable cash; build or buy an M41/b Swedish sniper. That’s about 4 cents of knowledge. The scope on that above rifle you are looking at looks like one of those Chinese knock offs. They SUCK.
 
I personally would not want 1/2 real sniper. Once a collectible weapon is toyed with, it’s just that sadly. If I were looking for a shooter, I would first look at the most readily available ammunition. 10 years ago it was not an issue. Now it is. If you have to have a Mauser sniper, I personally would not shoot a real matching one unless it is a restoration with restoration parts. If you can’t find that; get a donor rifle, and build a HT sniper. Reproduction mounts and rings are available. Make sure the bore is good. The optic is key. Don’t skimp if you are shooting vintage sniper matches. If you are just going to do reenactment deals then, doesn’t matter.
Btw if you are wanting to shoot vintage sniper games; the 03A4 or the pu snipers are good prices still and very effective weapons. If you have expendable cash; build or buy an M41/b Swedish sniper. That’s about 4 cents of knowledge. The scope on that above rifle you are looking at looks like one of those Chinese knock offs. They SUCK.
Thanks for the insight. What makes the HT a better option for reproduction setups?

What is a good reproduction scope? I expect that real WW2 scopes will be expensive
 
How much do you think it affects the value? I know for collectibility ideally you wouldn't do this. I'm guessing since it wasn't matching numbers the person just decided to have it done.
Since I am looking for a donor rifle anyway to have this done to it is appealing to me to save time and money if I can get it at the right price.
My only concern is if it was done properly. From what I can see it looks like they did a decent job but ideally you would want to see it in person and get hands on.
I would also prefer to have some authentic rails and scope for it eventually.
You were looking for a shooter rifle - if this is priced as a shooter rifle, and it shoots great, buy it. If the receiver turns out to be an original LSR receiver, then you are lucky that you got everything at a shooter price. If not, nothing bad happened.

Re "authentic rail and scope": I'm with Andy at this. You either have a collectible rifle, or a shooter. Or do you really consider spending just a few thousand $ with the year long hassle to locate original base, mount and scope for this rifle, only to in the end make it semi original, if the receiver is no original LSR receiver?
 
Thanks for the insight. What makes the HT a better option for reproduction setups?

What is a good reproduction scope? I expect that real WW2 scopes will be expensive

High/Low Turret mounts are the most sturdiest of the mounts designed during the war for the K98k system, the side rails had a notoriety to work themselves loose over time with the recoil of the 8mm cartridge.
However they were labor intensive to produce and build for wartime expediency.

Stay away from all reproduction scopes unless it was by spielauer or I think iron sights.
Look on forums and ebay for commercial zielviers and hensoldt x4 power scopes, you can find them for cheap and they work well.
 
High/Low Turret mounts are the most sturdiest of the mounts designed during the war for the K98k system, the side rails had a notoriety to work themselves loose over time with the recoil of the 8mm cartridge.
However they were labor intensive to produce and build for wartime expediency.

Stay away from all reproduction scopes unless it was by spielauer or I think iron sights.
Look on forums and ebay for commercial zielviers and hensoldt x4 power scopes, you can find them for cheap and they work well.
Ahh ok. Would the rail system that's on this rifle allow for an authentic scope to be attached? I would definitely like to get a real scope on there at some point if I could locate one.

I know it will never be a 'real' sniper but I would love to have a period correct scope on it if it will fit.
 
The rail on this rifle is a reproduction. You have no guarantee that an original top mount would work with the reproduction base. And even if you find an original mount, you are looking at minimum $ 1000 for the mount only. Additionally I don't see any reason as to why replace the mount only for an original one on a rifle which might not be an original LSR sniper, use a reproduction base and a reproduction mount.
You wouldn't go through the hassle and find an original Shelby Cobra Engine and pay a crazy price for this, only to then use it in a reproduction Shelby Cobra, would you? Same here.
 

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