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Why is linseed oil not a good idea?

1

1armybrat

Active member
I noticed on the wts forum that linseed oil was mentioned as a negative.
Why?
What is the best treatment for a nice stock?
Thank you in advance
 
I assume a pretty big reason is it stains the wood and leaves the stock in an unoriginal state

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The best treatment for a nice 98k stock is NOTHING, NOTHING AT ALL. If you have to put something on a 98k stock it's not nice IMO. And if it was nice before you put something on it, it's no longer nice after that. With that said, not many 98k's have untouched stocks.

Linseed oil gets into the pores of the wood and over time it hardens, splitting the wood. I know, I did it when I was young and dumb.
 
linseed oil

Yikes ,splitting wood . I will take a pass.
I have been told that the Germans used Ballistol .
Any know negative effects ?
Old timers have mentioned oven cleaner for removing old grease and grime.
And Yes I do understand leave it the hell alone.
Just trying to sort out gun show talk.
 
another thing.

if you ever get a stock that feels dry like driftwood, don't feed it.... it's not thirsty....it won't go bad.

it's actually more desirable that way
 
1armybrat said:
Yikes ,splitting wood . I will take a pass.
I have been told that the Germans used Ballistol .
Any know negative effects ?
Old timers have mentioned oven cleaner for removing old grease and grime.
And Yes I do understand leave it the hell alone.
Just trying to sort out gun show talk.
Click to expand...

Ballistol long term is probably not really good either...plus Germans were said to have used anything available, including motor oil.

I don't think, at the time, they weren't worried about long term effects...

The less you do the better, as you seem to understand...

There are many thoughts on stock work...obviously an untouched stock should be left untouched...but otherwise it should be carefully thought about...I think that any stocks that are very oil/cosmoline soaked need to be cleaned...petroleum products left soaked in the stock is absolutely deleterious to the wood long term, so I say get that out of there...

I don't like leaving post war varnish/poly/shellac or anything of the sort on it either.

But you have to also know, if not done correctly, anything you do could reduce the value of the gun to hard core collectors...so be judicious...
 
All good advice. High def pics of the lumber in question would yield some good suggestions I'm sure.
 
Yikes. Well I have a lightly sanded stock that i'm trying to match the hand guard to(the reddish tint). I thought raw linseed oil was good? Guess i got the wrong info. I've already put about 4 coats it. Should i do something else to protect it?
 
Missourigunguy said:
Yikes. Well I have a lightly sanded stock that i'm trying to match the hand guard to(the reddish tint). I thought raw linseed oil was good? Guess i got the wrong info. I've already put about 4 coats it. Should i do something else to protect it?
Click to expand...


Linseed oil on stocks is a very touchy subject here. I see it slightly different than some others. I am in total agreement that if you get a stock that still has its original finish, has not been sanded etc. You don't need to do anything. When I get one like that, if it has surface dirt, I wipe it down with a slightly damp cotton rag, then rub it with a dry cotton cloth, and it is done. After that if you keep it in a humidity controlled enviroment, it should stay stable for your lifetime. When people say they have an extremely dry stock, it does not need oil, which seals moisture out, it just needs to be put in a properly conditioned enviroment, and over time it will absorb moisture from the air. If a stock has already been defaced by sanding, I don't think linseed oil is a bad thing to use. When I first joined an internet forum discussing K98ks many years ago, the experts were adamant that the Germans never used Linseed oil, that was just a US thing. More recent research, much of it done by very knowledgable folks on this forum, has brought to light original German wartime documents that they did use some form of Linseed oil, "linseed oil varnish" on pre war and early war stocks at least. I think the disagreements now are about exactly what "linseed oil varnish" consisted of, and does a similiar product exist today. Later war stocks may or may not have been stained and/or oiled depending on timeframe and maker.

If your stock was already sanded enough to remove the original finish, then I don't think you have hurt it if linseed oil has been lightly applied. I would think it more correct than a modern product like Howards feed-an-wax which some people approve of.

The above is my opinion only, and there are others on this forum who I have great respect for and extensive knowledge that will disagree, and I totally respect there opinion.

good luck
 
proper stock care

Runner,
I believe there are some diplomatic positions open in the state dept.
Interested ?
All good information and well delivered.
 
runner said:
Linseed oil on stocks is a very touchy subject here. I see it slightly different than some others. I am in total agreement that if you get a stock that still has its original finish, has not been sanded etc. You don't need to do anything. When I get one like that, if it has surface dirt, I wipe it down with a slightly damp cotton rag, then rub it with a dry cotton cloth, and it is done. After that if you keep it in a humidity controlled enviroment, it should stay stable for your lifetime. When people say they have an extremely dry stock, it does not need oil, which seals moisture out, it just needs to be put in a properly conditioned enviroment, and over time it will absorb moisture from the air. If a stock has already been defaced by sanding, I don't think linseed oil is a bad thing to use. When I first joined an internet forum discussing K98ks many years ago, the experts were adamant that the Germans never used Linseed oil, that was just a US thing. More recent research, much of it done by very knowledgable folks on this forum, has brought to light original German wartime documents that they did use some form of Linseed oil, "linseed oil varnish" on pre war and early war stocks at least. I think the disagreements now are about exactly what "linseed oil varnish" consisted of, and does a similiar product exist today. Later war stocks may or may not have been stained and/or oiled depending on timeframe and maker.

If your stock was already sanded enough to remove the original finish, then I don't think you have hurt it if linseed oil has been lightly applied. I would think it more correct than a modern product like Howards feed-an-wax which some people approve of.

The above is my opinion only, and there are others on this forum who I have great respect for and extensive knowledge that will disagree, and I totally respect there opinion.

good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks.. If my stock wasn't sanded I would've left it alone. Unfortunately is an S/42 1936 matching, well what is left. I'm trying to restore it back and match the hand guard and front of the duffle repair.
 
So I'll say this for the Howard's supporters of which I'm one. This has been said many times by many of us but we're talking drops.. a small dollop. Not like you're slattering on SPF 70 in the DR. A small amount in your palms rubbed and then rubbed in. And I've only used this on chemically cleaned/chemically dried stocks where someone when off with Acetone, Lacquer Thinner or some similar drying solvent. Also as previously stated and asserted I'd challenge most anyone to even tell what or anything was done after a day or 2. Serious. It's the 'well if a half ounce is good, half a bottle is better' guys who give it a bad name.
 
1armybrat said:
Runner,
I believe there are some diplomatic positions open in the state dept.
Interested ?
All good information and well delivered.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment, but I wouldn't last a week,
I'm not much of a "swamp" creature.
 
heavy_mech said:
So I'll say this for the Howard's supporters of which I'm one. This has been said many times by many of us but we're talking drops.. a small dollop. Not like you're slattering on SPF 70 in the DR. A small amount in your palms rubbed and then rubbed in. And I've only used this on chemically cleaned/chemically dried stocks where someone when off with Acetone, Lacquer Thinner or some similar drying solvent. Also as previously stated and asserted I'd challenge most anyone to even tell what or anything was done after a day or 2. Serious. It's the 'well if a half ounce is good, half a bottle is better' guys who give it a bad name.
Click to expand...

This. Some people like to engage in histrionics HM. If you say a product is good for certain stocks, and only sparingly, it becomes use it on every stock by the bucket. Properly used you can't tell it was used, other than to clean out dust, grease, nicotine, etc. from poor storage and poor handling from 1946 to present. Most of us know what stocks need help and which ones don't. The museum curator conservation rule: do nothing which cannot be undone.

That said, the best thing to do was stated by Farb; nothing. Climate and humidity control (about 50%) and leave it be. The manufacturers and the Wehrmacht did provide for flaxseed oil (linseed oil) varnish finish to seal and protect the wood. That was necessary because the rifles were in the field, in the rain, etc. Our rifles are not. I have a shooter bolt mm K98k and I wipe the stock with linseed oil to seal it as it is used outdoors, sometimes in wet conditions. It's a tool, a firearm for shooting, not a collector piece for conserving, though it looks fine.
 
As most have said leave it alone but on the rare occasion it's needed, like with a shooter, make sure you cut your oil at least 1/3 with pure gum turpentine. Most of the linseed oil disasters I've seen were due to improper application. Cutting the oil will give you very little sheen, no build up and prevent the varnished look. Buff the excess off in about an hour and then leave it alone.

My shooter is a 37 Sauer and it was sitting in a cupped butt plate stock when I bought it. I found an old walnut somewhat tiger stripped RC Sauer stock on Ebay that someone had stripped with a strong solvent leaving it bone dry with an almost blond look. Some thinned linseed oil and a bit of time in a dark safe and it's has darkened somewhat with very little sheen but just enough to bring out the wood's figure.

Only done to a mixed number shooter, not grandpa's bringback.
 
Raw versus Boiled Linseed Oil

First off, it would be news to M1903 collectors that linseed oil was splitting their stocks. Second, there is raw linseed oil, which dries very slowly, and "boiled" linseed oil, which has a chemical in it to speed oxidation. The US military issued raw linseed oil for use on stocks through WW2.

I have an Amberg 1917, import marked out of Turkey. Not worth much as the last 6" of the barrel are rough. But it is mostly matching, including the stock, which is quite nice. Hardwood stock with some cured oil on it. Maybe the Turks did it, or maybe they just finished what someone else started.
 
togor said:
First off, it would be news to M1903 collectors that linseed oil was splitting their stocks. Second, there is raw linseed oil, which dries very slowly, and "boiled" linseed oil, which has a chemical in it to speed oxidation. The US military issued raw linseed oil for use on stocks through WW2.

I have an Amberg 1917, import marked out of Turkey. Not worth much as the last 6" of the barrel are rough. But it is mostly matching, including the stock, which is quite nice. Hardwood stock with some cured oil on it. Maybe the Turks did it, or maybe they just finished what someone else started.
Click to expand...

I think what Farb was touching on is German laminate stocks...there is a big difference in laminate and solid walnut.

What others have said though, its all in the application, whether its Howards, BLO, real Tung oil, raw linseed...extremely sparing is the key, rubbed in well is the key...

But foremost, if it is untouched when you get it leave it be! If it lasted fine for 80 years being untouched and dry, its not going to turn into dust next year....
 
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