What is the best way to store leather holsters
- Thread starter fishermankw
- Start date
DaveDavis
Well-known member
Thank you / it's a lesson I learned the hard way years ago....
Scharf
Well-known member
Hello!
With any leather goods I stand by several rules :
Don't seal them in a bag or anything that grants ideal conditions for mold to develop
Avoid direct sunlight at all cost!
Always wear wool or silk gloves when handling them, micro sweat drops are acidic and will damage the leather over time.
I've heard some people used "nivéa" cream and other skin care products, now I know the germans did that at some point but for storage it's definitely a bad idea because it clogs up the pores on the leather's surface, absolutely perfect for molds to feed on.
I tend to not use any products but when I do I only apply a fine layer of leather conditioner (only use one that does not tarnish the stitching) , wipe the excess with a cloth and then polish gently the whole surface. I do this twice a year.
For now everything is on shelves and that's not ideal because it's open to dust. A cabinet is nice!
Et voilà ! This was my 2 cents in this whole thread
Happy collecting!
With any leather goods I stand by several rules :
Don't seal them in a bag or anything that grants ideal conditions for mold to develop
Avoid direct sunlight at all cost!
Always wear wool or silk gloves when handling them, micro sweat drops are acidic and will damage the leather over time.
I've heard some people used "nivéa" cream and other skin care products, now I know the germans did that at some point but for storage it's definitely a bad idea because it clogs up the pores on the leather's surface, absolutely perfect for molds to feed on.
I tend to not use any products but when I do I only apply a fine layer of leather conditioner (only use one that does not tarnish the stitching) , wipe the excess with a cloth and then polish gently the whole surface. I do this twice a year.
For now everything is on shelves and that's not ideal because it's open to dust. A cabinet is nice!
Et voilà ! This was my 2 cents in this whole thread
Happy collecting!
Cav Trooper 19D
Scouts Out!
I've heard of people using Nivea, Picard's antique conditioner, Obenauf's leather conditioner, etc. but I've mainly just used a very soft bristle toothbrush for any cleaning. I have used thin coat of Obenauf's before but not on some of my unissued holsters like the M1916 WWI and WWII russet leather holsters since usually darkens the leather.
Deep cracking and brittleness that happens with some of these old leather pieces is heartbreaking at times. So many factors to consider with each person's environment and once leather gets to that brittle breaking stage there's no amount of conditioner that can bring it back.
I store mine in plastic bags, but I do not seal the bag. Mine are stored with my guns in a humidity-controlled room.
Never use any product that has petroleum distillates in it as it will dry out the leather over the long term. I recommend Connolly's Hide Care. A little goes a long way.
Never use any product that has petroleum distillates in it as it will dry out the leather over the long term. I recommend Connolly's Hide Care. A little goes a long way.
We’ve got a thread on conservation. I have a lot of vintage leather, from helmet liners, to holsters, to pouches and slings. Over the last 35+ years of trial, error, wins, losses, I generally follow the museum conservation model:
1) Good- Do nothing that cannot be undone.
2) Good- 50% humidity / climate control / HVAC
3) Sucks- UV light, heat, insects, bad air environment (nicotine, pollution), temp extremes.
4) Sucks- in sealed plastic bags, moisture, mold, 0 humidity
5) Sucks - verdigris, mold
6) Sucks - excess oils and leather “treatments”*
7) Good - See 1): do nothing that cannot be undone.
*This invariably creates debate. Slathering with Pecards and leather treatment is bad and is more destructive than helpful. Particularly no “mink oils” and such. Might as well pee on your vintage holster.
1) Good- Do nothing that cannot be undone.
2) Good- 50% humidity / climate control / HVAC
3) Sucks- UV light, heat, insects, bad air environment (nicotine, pollution), temp extremes.
4) Sucks- in sealed plastic bags, moisture, mold, 0 humidity
5) Sucks - verdigris, mold
6) Sucks - excess oils and leather “treatments”*
7) Good - See 1): do nothing that cannot be undone.
*This invariably creates debate. Slathering with Pecards and leather treatment is bad and is more destructive than helpful. Particularly no “mink oils” and such. Might as well pee on your vintage holster.
Zeppelin5000
Senior Member
I always like your answers Ham lol. Straight and to the point.
Scharf
Well-known member
I will agree with Hambone, it's best to just leave as is most of the time. As I said I used a leather conditioner several times before but I took time to study and ask around to people that were working with leather. But I stand by what's already been said, best is to do nothing.
A few years ago I had a large piece of a Japanese parachute . I had a local seamstress Mike gun bags to fit the holsters. I than keep the complete rig in Crown Royal liquor bags. Gun safed, no problems. Banjomike
mike radford
Senior Member
With respect to mold, including on wood stocks, is to wipe with a good quality paper towel with a enough white vinegar, enough to notice it got damp. Let it dry. Apply a light coat of Ballistol to keep the mold from returning. Typically, the wood or leather will return to looking like it should in just a few days. Then store in temp and humidity-controlled environment in an unsealed breathable place.
This is the only thing that stopped the mold on one of my battle damaged Japanese T-38 Carbines that apparently got some kind of potent jungle fungus. It infected any stock that got near it and was a constant struggle. This has stopped it for several years. Nothing else worked even if attacked every few months. Storage was always good.
I used the same technique on Oak cabinets and leather furniture in a house that got too wet and had iffy temp and humidity control for a couple years. The mold stopped and both look untreated and the wood especially nice but not like it was treated.
This is the only thing that stopped the mold on one of my battle damaged Japanese T-38 Carbines that apparently got some kind of potent jungle fungus. It infected any stock that got near it and was a constant struggle. This has stopped it for several years. Nothing else worked even if attacked every few months. Storage was always good.
I used the same technique on Oak cabinets and leather furniture in a house that got too wet and had iffy temp and humidity control for a couple years. The mold stopped and both look untreated and the wood especially nice but not like it was treated.
