Seeking Stock Restoration Advice

Gerst

Senior Member
A member for only a couple of months, I recently acquired a 1944 98k from another member. The rifle was well maintained and it was a simple matter to remove the small amount of rust and corrosion on the metal.

The stock, not “native” to the rifle but “period” correct, is in fair but not original condition. It has a coating of shiny finish which has been worn off in several places and appears to have been stained because the dents and dings are darker than the rest of stock.

I want to remove what is left of the shiny finish and the stain and replace both - no sanding.

I need some product advice. I don’t want use anything that will harm the wood. I just need to remove the finish and stain and replace both. I’ll need advice on the new stain and finish as well.

Thank you, gentlemen, for your assistance.
 
The Germans never stained the stocks to my knowledge. I would be hesitant to use any stain due to the age of the laminate glue. As for finish removal, I've used acetone on a rag. Little at a time and work it out. If the surface dries out I do a very, very sparse wipe of ballistol. It's the extent of any finish work I've ever done.
 
The Germans never stained the stocks to my knowledge. I would be hesitant to use any stain due to the age of the laminate glue. As for finish removal, I've used acetone on a rag. Little at a time and work it out. If the surface dries out I do a very, very sparse wipe of ballistol. It's the extent of any finish work I've ever done.

So you suggest acetone (laquer thinner) wiped on with a rag to remove the finish and ballistol afterwards.
 
acetone is not the same chemically as lacquer thinner, or xylol. All 3 will remove paint/stain/lacquer/varnish and should be used w/ventilation & care.........
 
So you suggest acetone (laquer thinner) wiped on with a rag to remove the finish and ballistol afterwards.

Right, do it on a rag as opposed to applying it directly as you will prevent saturation which may delaminate. Use a type of sack-cloth rag, not loose or terricloth material or it will get rag fibers stuck all over it. The acetone acts fast and usually will not dry out the wood. Whereas thinners need more application and hence will soak in and this is what you want to avoid. Only use a quick skin wipe of ballistol after if needed. I have found it will not darken the wood. I am no wood worker but it's worked for me over the years.
 
I've found a few finishes that just don't come off with just lacquer thinner or acetone. On these I've used both Jasco Stain and Varnish Remover spray and gel form Jasco Paint Stripper followed by lacquer and a toothbrush without damage or delamination for many years. No water! Have good ventilation and wear gloves. :thumbsup:
 
Is it wearing off or peeling off like that nice RC shellac? If it's peeling off you'd be surprised at how easy it is to get old brittle shellac off with just a plastic putty knife or even a credit card. If it's not shellac as far as using a thinner I would use the least caustic thinner that works which is usually lacquer thinner followed by a wipe down with mineral spirits to neutralize the lacquer thinner. All knowing government made the manufacturers take the methyl chloride out of paint removers so they really suck these days.
 
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