Really depends wether the bedding is compatible or not.Would it have to be a specific dot 1943 stock? Do you simply just drop the barrel and stuff in or do you have to set it?
Really depends wether the bedding is compatible or not.Would it have to be a specific dot 1943 stock? Do you simply just drop the barrel and stuff in or do you have to set it?
Gotcha. Thanks for the help. Bummed out this happened on my first purchase. Was really looking forward to shooting it.Really depends wether the bedding is compatible or not.
Gotcha. Thanks for the help. Bummed out this happened on my first purchase. Was really looking forward to shooting it.Just drop it in and see if it works.
100s? Probably not. 100 or 200 over time, sure. I have a box of 20 1940 Greek 8mm right now. Dealer said it’s non corrosive.Well you certainly can shoot it. Using modern commercial ammo? Not firing 100s of rounds? It's not going to blow apart in your hands. Tighten the action screws well.
good enough to show that it is broken out behind the lug, which is what I was afraid of. If you want to shoot 20 rounds a year, OK & leave it as is. Gluing is difficult when the wood is oily, some times you can soak it w/acetone enough to do it. 2nd pic: yup. would need some repair or substitute stock for a shooter. (lots of rounds)Like this? Sorry if that’s not the angle you’re looking for.
Dang. Really bummed about that. Buyer beware I guess. Thinking a new stock will be the best option. Now just to find one that works…good enough to show that it is broken out behind the lug, which is what I was afraid of. If you want to shoot 20 rounds a year, OK & leave it as is. Gluing is difficult when the wood is oily, some times you can soak it w/acetone enough to do it. 2nd pic: yup. would need some repair or substitute stock for a shooter. (lots of rounds)
Is the 1940 Greek ammo PCH? If so, it is certainly corrosive, make sure to clean it well after shooting it. Almost all 8x57 surplus ammo used corrosive primers, the only surplus ammo that used non-corrosive primers is the Portuguese 8x57 ball ammo and late war German ammo using Zdh30/40 primers.100s? Probably not. 100 or 200 over time, sure. I have a box of 20 1940 Greek 8mm right now. Dealer said it’s non corrosive.
Yes it’s PCH.Is the 1940 Greek ammo PCH? If so, it is certainly corrosive, make sure to clean it well after shooting it. Almost all 8x57 surplus ammo used corrosive primers, the only surplus ammo that used non-corrosive primers is the Portuguese 8x57 ball ammo and late war German ammo using Zdh30/40 primers.
It's corrosive. I've got a few boxes sitting on a shelf waiting for me to get around to pulling the projectiles.Yes it’s PCH.
Rob Ski (Vintage rifle shooter club on YouTube) used that ammo in his know your limits course with a 1904/39 and M937A. It performed pretty A ok to me but some folks have reported hang fires and duds which is to be expected imo. Imma get a case of it eventually to get the bullets and recycle the brass.Is that old Greek loaded hot? I'm not familiar with it.
Is that old Greek loaded hot? I'm not familiar with it.
Ok. The Turk is ridiculous and I wouldn't shoot that in any of these older collectible guns, but that's just me. I still have a bunch of late '40s and early '50s from when Centerfire was blowing it out. I wouldn't fire that out of a gun with some setback either.Nah. I haven't chrono'd it or anything but just from feel it's about on par with German military loads. Nothing like as hot as Turkish and it feels a bit tamer than 50s era Yugo.
I wanna get some Hornady HPBT match and take my 1940 Luftwaffe and bolt m/m Kriegsmarine for a spin at 100 and 200 yards.I should caveat what I said about shooting it using commercial loads, I was referencing so called 'law loads' like Remington Core-Lokt or Federal Power-Shok in 170gr. They have 'only' just over and under 2k muzzle energy respectively, while PPU 196gr SP has over 2600 ft. lbs in muzzle energy. Quite a difference and it's definitely noticeable on the shoulder gauge.
I'll admit I was shocked when I looked up the Federal and Remington ammo and saw the prices. Yeow.
The non slot cut capture screws are just awful. I think every K98K unless still the factory torqued down should have those non slot cut capture screws replaced with properly, hand fitted slotted capture screws. That will keep the action screws torqued down correctly.To the OP, the setback is not the worse I’ve seen, but if you plan to shoot and want peace of mind than I agree with other about having it repaired. Many have had great success fixing this issue themselves but since you mention that your not comfortable trying the repair... It shouldn’t cost too much to have a professional do it. For the triggerguard screws, you can also try a tiny dap of blue loctite to keep them properly torqued after properly degreasing. Of course, you should not do this on a collectible but if this is for shooting/display…. It’s not a big deal.
Not fps, but ft. lbs. For whitetails I was more concerned about the energy and these were a significant bump from the Core-Lokt I had been using in my byf 43 RC. It's funny because I still have 3 of the Core-Lokt in the box from ~20 years ago because I switched to the PPU.I wanna get some Hornady HPBT match and take my 1940 Luftwaffe and bolt m/m Kriegsmarine for a spin at 100 and 200 yards.
Edit: forgot toention but 2600 fps for PPU???? Dang that's unheard of, sounds like they upped the speed in the SP ammo VS there target/fmj stuff. (Unless ya mistaking PPU for S&B which I would then not be surprised by)
Ahhhhhhhhh I see now!Not fps, but ft. lbs. For whitetails I was more concerned about the energy and these were a significant bump from the Core-Lokt I had been using in my byf 43 RC. It's funny because I still have 3 of the Core-Lokt in the box from ~20 years ago because I switched to the PPU.
![]()
8mm MAUSER | PPU USA Ammunition
HANDGUN AMMUNITION · RIFLE AMMUNITION · RELOADING COMPONENTSppu-usa.com