Safe to shoot?

I bought a set of go/no-go/field headspace gauges for 8mm Mauser that I use in every K98 I buy before shooting. Some rifles have been ridden harder than others. Kinda surprised nobody else has mentioned that already. Usually with german-made mauser 98's you can assume it's good. For me it is peace of mind more than anything.

edit - I know dot is 'czech-made' but by german-made I'm talking K98s, Gew 98s, etc. As opposed to something like a Kai Shek
 
I understand and I’ve seen it as well. However, we are talking about the “safety” of shooting the OP’s rifle which from the limited pics doesn’t look too badly messed with. Looks maybe like a Balkan rework. Having said that, at the high point of my k98k collecting, I had 40+ k98ks in my collection of all flavors. All matching, bolt MM, RC’s, balkans, various reworks, sporters, you name it. I don’t mention this to brag, but in the days of mixing matching RC’s to “make them more correct” I have headspaced every possible combination of bolt to receiver. I still caught the tail end of RCs in crates and I had more money than sense in those days. My point is that I’m yet to see a real safety concern of bad headspace in a k98k be it RC, bolt MM, etc. While buggered bolts, grinding and polishing of external parts may be not cosmetically pleasing to our eyes, it doesn’t mean it’s unsafe to shoot.

To the issue of recoil lug setback, yes it can be a problem if you have it and keep shooting it. Dangerous? Probably not. Will you eventually crack the stock? Absolutely.

Now of course some rifles have serious safety concerns due to catastrophic situations like a dud round stuck in the barrel and then having been fired again. Either way, the Mauser 98 action is one of the safest bolt actions in history.
the only one I’ve found unsafe to shoot was a Spanish M43 that someone had polished the sear & cocking piece faces of, changing the angles slightly & making the surfaces slippery. I could make it ‘slam fire’ almost at will using a lightweight rubber hammer. replaced parts, fixed!
 
I understand and I’ve seen it as well. However, we are talking about the “safety” of shooting the OP’s rifle which from the limited pics doesn’t look too badly messed with. Looks maybe like a Balkan rework. Having said that, at the high point of my k98k collecting, I had 40+ k98ks in my collection of all flavors. All matching, bolt MM, RC’s, balkans, various reworks, sporters, you name it. I don’t mention this to brag, but in the days of mixing matching RC’s to “make them more correct” I have headspaced every possible combination of bolt to receiver. I still caught the tail end of RCs in crates and I had more money than sense in those days. My point is that I’m yet to see a real safety concern of bad headspace in a k98k be it RC, bolt MM, etc. While buggered bolts, grinding and polishing of external parts may be not cosmetically pleasing to our eyes, it doesn’t mean it’s unsafe to shoot.

To the issue of recoil lug setback, yes it can be a problem if you have it and keep shooting it. Dangerous? Probably not. Will you eventually crack the stock? Absolutely.

Now of course some rifles have serious safety concerns due to catastrophic situations like a dud round stuck in the barrel and then having been fired again. Either way, the Mauser 98 action is one of the safest bolt actions in history.
In the second picture I posted, is the crack below the recoil lug concerning?
 
In the second picture I posted, is the crack below the recoil lug concerning?
As others mentioned, until you remove the action and get us some good pics of the area internally… all we can provide is guesswork and conjecture. The good news is that if you do have an issue, it can be most likely fixed.
 
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Here is a pic to illustrate the area. This is a Gew98 but it's the same idea. The metal bar you see is the recoil lug. See how there is no gap between it and the wood at the front of the mag well? And how the wood is intact and not cracked? This is how it's supposed to look.

View attachment 428455

If you can get a shot like this people here should be able to tell you what's going on with it.
Wanted to respond with my picture.
Here is a pic to illustrate the area. This is a Gew98 but it's the same idea. The metal bar you see is the recoil lug. See how there is no gap between it and the wood at the front of the mag well? And how the wood is intact and not cracked? This is how it's supposed to look.

View attachment 428455

If you can get a shot like this people here should be able to tell you what's going on with it.
Wanted to respond with my pictures.
 

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Here are some pictures after disassembly.
 

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I understand and I’ve seen it as well. However, we are talking about the “safety” of shooting the OP’s rifle which from the limited pics doesn’t look too badly messed with. Looks maybe like a Balkan rework. Having said that, at the high point of my k98k collecting, I had 40+ k98ks in my collection of all flavors. All matching, bolt MM, RC’s, balkans, various reworks, sporters, you name it. I don’t mention this to brag, but in the days of mixing matching RC’s to “make them more correct” I have headspaced every possible combination of bolt to receiver. I still caught the tail end of RCs in crates and I had more money than sense in those days. My point is that I’m yet to see a real safety concern of bad headspace in a k98k be it RC, bolt MM, etc. While buggered bolts, grinding and polishing of external parts may be not cosmetically pleasing to our eyes, it doesn’t mean it’s unsafe to shoot.

To the issue of recoil lug setback, yes it can be a problem if you have it and keep shooting it. Dangerous? Probably not. Will you eventually crack the stock? Absolutely.

Now of course some rifles have serious safety concerns due to catastrophic situations like a dud round stuck in the barrel and then having been fired again. Either way, the Mauser 98 action is one of the safest bolt actions in history.
Posted some pics.
 
1 more please, through the TG opening, looking up at that same wall of wood (the double gothic arch). needs light. when the grain splits there behind the lug its easier to see looking up from inside the TG well. that gothic arch cut is very typical for Czech stocks.
Like this? Sorry if that’s not the angle you’re looking for.
 

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1 more please, through the TG opening, looking up at that same wall of wood (the double gothic arch). needs light. when the grain splits there behind the lug its easier to see looking up from inside the TG well. that gothic arch cut is very typical for Czech stocks.
This is probably what you’re looking for.
 

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Certainly appears the wood behind the recoil lug has cracks (both photos 1151/52). Think I see a hairline along one of the laminate layers as well. Continued shooting as is ultimately might result in the entire chunk of wood behind the lug breaking away to the rear. Glue plus drilling a couple small holes and pinning the pieces together with small dowel rods (after lining the cracks up), might provide the desired result.
 
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Certainly appears the wood behind the recoil lug has cracks (both photos 1151/52). Think I see a hairline along one of the laminate layers as well. Continued shooting as is ultimately might result in the entire chunk of wood behind the lug breaking away to the rear. Glue plus drilling a couple small holes and pinning the pieces together with small dowel rods (after lining the cracks up), might provide the desired result.
He may need one of the Mauser gunsmithing books as well. Or just find someone who can do the work and repair it. This is why I don't like the late war style capture screws, they do this to the recoil cross bolt area because of the action screws not being properly torqued down and then the lock washer comes loose and then the cross bolt is no longer "tight"
 
He may need one of the Mauser gunsmithing books as well. Or just find someone who can do the work and repair it. This is why I don't like the late war style capture screws, they do this to the recoil cross bolt area because of the action screws not being properly torqued down and then the lock washer comes loose and then the cross bolt is no longer "tight"
I’m definitely not comfortable doing it myself. Hopefully there is a local gunsmith that is familiar with the problem and can fix.
 
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I’m definitely not comfortable doing it myself. Hopefully there is a local gunsmith that is familiar with the problem and can fix.
You can also have it shipped out to a shop but the wait times will probably be awhile (could try Charlie Mike tactical maybe? Henry from 9 hole reviews on YouTube has used him in the past for bedding and fine tuning accuracy work along with somewhat custom builds. Be sure to state what you need done and provide pictures as well so they have a visual) when ya get it repaired I recommend getting some slotted capture screws and store the non slotted capture screws that came with your rifle in a marked plastic sandwich bag or something with the rifle serial number.
 
You can also have it shipped out to a shop but the wait times will probably be awhile (could try Charlie Mike tactical maybe? Henry from 9 hole reviews on YouTube has used him in the past for bedding and fine tuning accuracy work along with somewhat custom builds. Be sure to state what you need done and provide pictures as well so they have a visual) when ya get it repaired I recommend getting some slotted capture screws and store the non slotted capture screws that came with your rifle in a marked plastic sandwich bag or something with the rifle serial number.
What about trying to find a new stock? This one isn’t original to the barrel and bolt assembly.
 
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