Safe to shoot?
- Thread starter k98dot16
- Start date
Thank you for saying that, I was starting to panic that I made mistake on this purchase. Is it something I need to get addressed in the near future?
The recoil lug set-back seems minimal from the photo. On the other hand, the further the lug gets pushed back, the more damage there will be. I would pull the action and take a good look at the stock where the lug abuts up against it, for cracks, etc. .Twenty or so minutes to take the rifle apart and reassemble is worth the effort. Should you discover something does not look quite right, don't hesitate to post more pics and guidance will undoubtedly be forthcoming...
Thank you! I plan to take it apart tonight to examine. I will reply with pictures for input.
Cyrano4747
Well-known member
Seconding to take a look at the area that the lug beds into. Pull the action and take pictures of the inside of the stock in the lug area and people here will be able to give you some advice. The setback doesn't look that bad from where I'm sitting, but the real story is going to be in the pictures inside the stock.
Even if the lug is bad and you shoot it it's not unsafe, you're just at risk of damaging the stock. Not ideal, obviously, but it isn't a personal safety issue.
Even if the lug is bad and you shoot it it's not unsafe, you're just at risk of damaging the stock. Not ideal, obviously, but it isn't a personal safety issue.
Gotcha yeah I’ll definitely put some pictures in. Is there a fix or would it have to be a new stock?
There are options to repairing the stock if section affected is cracked behind rectangular lug. If that gives way, the then circular ends of the lug begin to dig into the stock if repeated firing takes place. Don't think you will have to concern yourself with a new stock at this point...
Gotcha. Yeah I’ll definitely take a harder look tonight. I was just starting to panic that I bought my first ever Mauser and wouldn’t even be able to shoot it safely!! Thank you for talking me off the ledge.
Mauserguy85
Well-known member
These rifles survived WW2 in some of most treacherous combat conditions… they can definitely survive you. 
I would take the action out, remove the recoil lug, clean the area, and then saturate the wood with superglue. Get into the cracks, voids, whatever. Glue the shite out of it. Reinstall the lug once it’s dry and then drop the action back in.
(Super glue is reasonably safe conservation and repair material. It’s not the end of the world. It’s used on instruments and other wooden things. And this isn’t exactly a premium stock on a premium rifle).
(Super glue is reasonably safe conservation and repair material. It’s not the end of the world. It’s used on instruments and other wooden things. And this isn’t exactly a premium stock on a premium rifle).
Is it easy to take out the recoil lugs?
Cyrano4747
Well-known member
I would not recommend taking out the recoil lug unless you know that there is a problem and know how to fix it. I would also not recommend just soaking the area in super glue if it does need repair. You can screw things up improperly removing or reinstalling the recoil lug.
Take some pics, find out if there is a problem, if there is some people here can give you advice on how to fix it properly.
Take some pics, find out if there is a problem, if there is some people here can give you advice on how to fix it properly.
Cyrano4747
Well-known member
They were also in the hands of people with access to proper armorer's tools, a supply system to replace broken or worn parts, and armorers who knew how to service them.These rifles survived WW2 in some of most treacherous combat conditions… they can definitely survive you.
I've seen a lot of rifles screwed up by post-war owners. Buggered screw heads isn't even the tip of that iceberg. Lots of improper, bad repairs that left things in a worse condition than if they had just been left alone.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
yeah but: but they were never this old before, & not designed to last forever (the wood).These rifles survived WW2 in some of most treacherous combat conditions… they can definitely survive you.
A
As long as I can get some rounds in occasionally without hurting myself.
Muncher 1953
Senior Member
take the action off the stock, but also the trigger guard. then with bright light, look at the wood in front of the cartridge box but behind the lug. If there’s a slight step in the wood wall, sticks out 1/32”, then the wood has split behind the recoil lug. sometimes the piece can be moved, mostly not. look closely. for occasional use, it’s not a big deal, heavy use, yes. this is where super glue & other methods could be applied. check to see if it’s even there before you worry about it.
Cyrano4747
Well-known member
Here is a pic to illustrate the area. This is a Gew98 but it's the same idea. The metal bar you see is the recoil lug. See how there is no gap between it and the wood at the front of the mag well? And how the wood is intact and not cracked? This is how it's supposed to look.
If you can get a shot like this people here should be able to tell you what's going on with it.
If you can get a shot like this people here should be able to tell you what's going on with it.
Blackpowderresearcher
Well-known member
You can also acraglass around where the lug would fit the stock. Just a bit and then put in the action. Be sure to apply release agent to the metal FIRST. If you don't you can permanently glue the action to the stock. We'd plug the screw hole with clay first too to keep any acraglass out of it.
After it has cured (24 hrs), separate the action from the stock and any excess acraglass should be removed. Please limit yourself to hand tools and avoid the dreaded high speed spinning tool (dremel).
BTW, I stopped using release agent and use Johnson paste wax. Yeah, I'm cheap but it works. Keeps me from having another chemical around the house (and I've been looking for a used yaller chemical cabinet).
After it has cured (24 hrs), separate the action from the stock and any excess acraglass should be removed. Please limit yourself to hand tools and avoid the dreaded high speed spinning tool (dremel).
BTW, I stopped using release agent and use Johnson paste wax. Yeah, I'm cheap but it works. Keeps me from having another chemical around the house (and I've been looking for a used yaller chemical cabinet).
Mauserguy85
Well-known member
I understand and I’ve seen it as well. However, we are talking about the “safety” of shooting the OP’s rifle which from the limited pics doesn’t look too badly messed with. Looks maybe like a Balkan rework. Having said that, at the high point of my k98k collecting, I had 40+ k98ks in my collection of all flavors. All matching, bolt MM, RC’s, balkans, various reworks, sporters, you name it. I don’t mention this to brag, but in the days of mixing matching RC’s to “make them more correct” I have headspaced every possible combination of bolt to receiver. I still caught the tail end of RCs in crates and I had more money than sense in those days. My point is that I’m yet to see a real safety concern of bad headspace in a k98k be it RC, bolt MM, etc. While buggered bolts, grinding and polishing of external parts may be not cosmetically pleasing to our eyes, it doesn’t mean it’s unsafe to shoot.
To the issue of recoil lug setback, yes it can be a problem if you have it and keep shooting it. Dangerous? Probably not. Will you eventually crack the stock? Absolutely.
Now of course some rifles have serious safety concerns due to catastrophic situations like a dud round stuck in the barrel and then having been fired again. Either way, the Mauser 98 action is one of the safest bolt actions in history.