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Rear sight base what would you do?

Hudson

Well-known member
Bought two sporterized mausers at auction. One matching dot 1944 and a one byf 43 that has bolt that matches itself but not the rest of the rifle. I plan to find appropriate stocks barrel bands etc and return them to military configuration. The metal that is present hasn’t been messed with except the lips on the rear sight bases that retain the vanguards have been ground off on both.

On the dot 1944 thankfully it’s not a marked part and it’s the standard base. I feel pretty comfortable in my mechanical ability have been reading up on heating the sight bases with torch to get them off and replace. From what I’ve read I think with care it may be possible to do it without messing up the bluing.

On the byf 43 the rear sight base that they ground the lip off of is a zf41 base. Not sure I can find a correct replacement for that. May have to replace with a standard base, unless there’s another way to repair the lip. Open to ideas suggestions and peoples experience doing this sort of work.
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1st, I’d verify that the zf41 sight base is authentic & not a repro, if yes, I’d contact Andy @ www.nhwelding.com, & ask him if he thinks he could graft a lip from another rear sight base onto this one. He’s a wizard at such things. Personally, I’d use a paint stripping ‘gun’ (rather than literal torch) to remove the front & rear sights, a bit less ‘point source’ heating, & less likely to overheat the work pieces. Andy has done some amazing work for members here.

That being said & assuming Andy can help you with this, the part will never be ‘original’ again.
 
If original, I would follow the route of getting it repaired if possible. Its already not in original condition/permanently changed. The value loss is already there so turn it into a nice rescue, not sure I go look for original sight base as the rifle will already be having mm bands/stock etc. The question is, is the end product worth the cost of the original sight base? IMHO it would not be.
 
The ZF41 Base looks promising can You post a pic showing top side of the Base and also one photo from side view showing top side . I am attaching a sample photo of what you need to get in your photo
 

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I will post some more pics when I am able to this weekend. Not sure what you are suggesting with your picture.
 
So getting in to this to post some pictures it is more of a mix master. I am using “backbone of the Wehrmacht” as my only k98 reference book at this time. Here are some more pics:
7E3B2CAC-89BB-48F7-9C24-50A4EA74A7A1.jpegCAD61402-682A-4B58-A3CF-5A8EF49D2AA2.jpegE36469A6-11BB-477C-B726-F68CB0F93054.jpegABD29BBA-B869-42FC-8DF6-5C8E6E5AD8AB.jpeg
 
So perhaps I missed it in my read through of backbone but what do the letter markings on the bottom surface of receiver indicate? Also the x on the bottom of the barrel at the front of the rear sight?
 
So perhaps I missed it in my read through of backbone but what do the letter markings on the bottom surface of receiver indicate? Also the x on the bottom of the barrel at the front of the rear sight?
“generally speaking” it isn’t known/recorded what the specific meaning of each mark is, BUT we can reasonably infer that they are inspection marks, made after some operation/feature was completed & properly. The 1 mark that IS known (though not the specific meaning) is the “RW” or “WR” which pertains uniquely to Mauser Oberndorf. Each factory had its’ own group of typical marks, which changed over time as personnel, tooling & sometimes manufacturing methods changed. The Radom factory in Poland used the most curious & varied assortment of marks of any of the factories. (IMO)
 
Removal of the front sight and sleeve is pretty easy with a propane torch. They are soldered with plain lead. Don't forget to remove both screws under the front post and rear sight first.
Heat and tap using a wood block with the hammer.
If you heat just enough, the bluing will not suffer.
Done it twice.
 
Getting it off may be fairly easy, but putting it back on and getting that little screw hole in the right postion before the solder cools too much is a whole another ball game. Don't ask me how I know this!
 
I repaired a missing lip off a rear sight base in a low tech way. Used a handguard retaining ring off a Swedish Mauser (it’s been awhile but pretty sure it was Swedish). Cut it with a dremel and was able to easily shape it to the correct profile. Removed just a little metal off the back with a grinder disc. Then I used JB weld to attach it to the base. Almost impossible to tell it was repaired. It holds well enough for display and such….
 
So getting in to this to post some pictures it is more of a mix master. I am using “backbone of the Wehrmacht” as my only k98 reference book at this time. Here are some more pics:
View attachment 321159

What does that label on the stock say?

Looks like it was lacquered in?

Crudely blown up on my end:

efVYyw6.png
 
I repaired a missing lip off a rear sight base in a low tech way. Used a handguard retaining ring off a Swedish Mauser (it’s been awhile but pretty sure it was Swedish). Cut it with a dremel and was able to easily shape it to the correct profile. Removed just a little metal off the back with a grinder disc. Then I used JB weld to attach it to the base. Almost impossible to tell it was repaired. It holds well enough for display and such….
Have you been able to fire the rifle with that repair? I would worry any good bump to the handguard would cause jb weld to break
 
What does that label on the stock say?

Looks like it was lacquered in?

Crudely blown up on my end:

efVYyw6.png
Says, CJM Fertile Minn. I’m assuming vets initials and home town. Fertile is a small town in northern minnesota the insets in this rifle are slabs of copper with letters stamped in and lacquered over…
 
Says, CJM Fertile Minn. I’m assuming vets initials and home town. Fertile is a small town in northern minnesota the insets in this rifle are slabs of copper with letters stamped in and lacquered over…

What do the insets say?

I find that kind of stuff on these guns fascinating. Sucks from a collector's point of view, but still part of the gun's history.
 
Have you been able to fire the rifle with that repair? I would worry any good bump to the handguard would cause jb weld to break
It looks good, and seems solid, but I haven't fired it...it looks great, but that will be the true test....
 

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