Need advice on stock restoration

[Austin1914]

Hello I would like some advice on what my options are regarding this stock. After taking the rifle apart for the first time I found my suspicion was true, that someone had applied something to the wood before. I would like to return it to a more original state if practical. I also wondered what these markings might mean? Thank you for your time, any advice or knowledge is greatly appreciated!

 

[Warrior1354]

For starters you have a replaced barrel. I see a 0,2 marking on your barrel where it meets the stock. Post more pictures before you do anything. You may have legit K98k rework.

 

[Austin1914]

Ok here’s more pictures of the barrel markings.

 

[sturmgrenadier]

Hello I would like some advice on what my options are regarding this stock. After taking the rifle apart for the first time I found my suspicion was true, that someone had applied something to the wood before. I would like to return it to a more original state if practical. I also wondered what these markings might mean? Thank you for your time, any advice or knowledge is greatly appreciated!

Looks like it may be the date code; your stock appears to be sanded as well. Look at the contours/ depressions around the recoil lug.

 

[agentcq]

It does look like a finish and or stain was added to the wood.

You have a few options:

1. Leave it - but in this case I think a restoration may be warranted.

2. I like to use a gel paint remover with a simple kitchen sponge and rubber gloves. Despite what people say, I do not find that it turns the wood 'green' but it will dull the wood. This is a great way to remove shellac, lacquer or paint finish. I have used this method on many restorations projects on wood and on metal. Once removed, the wood will look dull, then apply an oil/finish of your choice. There are many threads on what product should be applied within this forum. Everything from Tung Oil, Linseed Oil, Waxes, Howards or a mixture are general favorites. I have used them all with good effect. Realize that anything you do or apply is altering the rifle, it this case it is already altered and 'incorrect', so if you follow the above directions you will at least improve the appearance of stock and you will have a period correct look/feel.

3. If the gel paint remover doesn't work (purely a stain base) then you need to use a liquid paint remover or good old camping fuel (be careful with how you use/dispose of the used rags). This can be applied with good old kitchen sponges or rags, the more times you apply the remover the better result you will have. These products are slow to work and will take many applications, whereas the gel mentioned in #2 works almost instantly. Once you are finished removing the stained finish, you can choose to leave the stock 'raw' or apply a finish as discussed in option #2.


In either method #2 or #3 be careful around any remaining stock cartouches/numbers. If you saturate the wood, it can swell and markings can rise. However, a careful restoration project can often reveal nice and historical markings.

Try to avoid steel wool - in stubborn areas on #2 you could use #0000 wool very conservatively - especially as the stock is already sanded.

Good luck.

 

[tibi66]

Take door number 2

It does look like a finish and or stain was added to the wood.

You have a few options:

1. Leave it - but in this case I think a restoration may be warranted.

2. I like to use a gel paint remover with a simple kitchen sponge and rubber gloves. Despite what people say, I do not find that it turns the wood 'green' but it will dull the wood. This is a great way to remove shellac, lacquer or paint finish. I have used this method on many restorations projects on wood and on metal. Once removed, the wood will look dull, then apply an oil/finish of your choice. There are many threads on what product should be applied within this forum. Everything from Tung Oil, Linseed Oil, Waxes, Howards or a mixture are general favorites. I have used them all with good effect. Realize that anything you do or apply is altering the rifle, it this case it is already altered and 'incorrect', so if you follow the above directions you will at least improve the appearance of stock and you will have a period correct look/feel.

3. If the gel paint remover doesn't work (purely a stain base) then you need to use a liquid paint remover or good old camping fuel (be careful with how you use/dispose of the used rags). This can be applied with good old kitchen sponges or rags, the more times you apply the remover the better result you will have. These products are slow to work and will take many applications, whereas the gel mentioned in #2 works almost instantly. Once you are finished removing the stained finish, you can choose to leave the stock 'raw' or apply a finish as discussed in option #2.


In either method #2 or #3 be careful around any remaining stock cartouches/numbers. If you saturate the wood, it can swell and markings can rise. However, a careful restoration project can often reveal nice and historical markings.

Try to avoid steel wool - in stubborn areas on #2 you could use #0000 wool very conservatively - especially as the stock is already sanded.

Good luck.

I would go with choice 2 after removing it with a rag, never use wool, then I would fill your tub with very hot water submerge the wood to see if you can pop out some of the little dents, let dry for a day then apply linseed oil. Just watch the rag, it gets hot and might start a fire

 

[sheepdog]

First thing I would want to do is figure out what the finish is. The scratches make me wonder if it might be shellac. If so I'm a firm believer in using the least harshest methods possible. Old shellac should scratch easily like with a thumbnail. If this proves to be the case you might try a cheap 2" plastic putty knife to see what else you can scratch off followed by a good rubbing down with denatured alcohol. I use something coarse like burlap to liberally apply and rub the shellac off. If it's varnish or lacquer try lacquer thinner instead of the much hotter paint remover. You can use paint remover if this doesn't work but remember to give it a good wash with mineral spirits to remove or neutralize and residue left. Avoid abrasives at all cost. I usually leave the dents, every one has it's own history, but another way for removing them is a wet rag and a hot iron. Press the hot iron on the wet rag over the dent and the steam will do the work.

Stain if you must, avoid the mediocre stuff like Minwax. Try P&L Tonetic or make your own stain with turpentine a little linseed oil and some 844 Industrial colorant. My finish is two coats of boiled linseed oil cut about 1/3 with turpentine.

Good luck.