My K98k russian capture

Because they were reworked post war and are not wartime. Once a thread starts going the route of postwar discussion and stock stripping and refinishing as opposed to restoration, this is where it ends up because the discussion is no longer about what a rifle looked like in wartime, i.e, in German use between 1933 and 1945.
Thanks,
HB

No problemo. As far as I can tell, all the parts are WWII era though they don't match, which is good enough for me. When I was considering getting a K98k, I was looking at getting an all matching one off of gunbroker but then I decided to go with a russian capture since they're cheaper. I didn't want to drop $1000+ on a rifle that I may not like so I decided to take that risk with just $400. I normally just go for US stuff because that's where my interest lies, but after getting this one, I definitely want an all matching wartime K98k.
 
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I still have a few nice clean stocks with cupped butt plate on hand (275+35sh). Your rifle will be still a RC k98k with other bluing, but it will look much better. That's all that counts, a nice shooter or wall hanger.

In Europe almost all k98k's are post war reworked, people don't look to post war marks anyway. It's just not that important, they are still a German.

Best regards Tommy
us1945@hotmail.com
 
Stripping down an RC stock is something you need to think about. First a lot of the guys say that since that is technically a Russian rifle, the Russian red shellac slop job is correct for it. It's a legitamite thought and one to consider. Yes it is shellac.

Now if you still want to do it and by reading some of these posts it sounds like the stock is flaking, the first thing you should do is peel as much of that shellac off with a plastic putty knife or something. After that use denatured alcohol to remove the rest. I soak some burlap I have with it to wipe it down, a towel will do. Whatever you do stay away from any abrasive like sandpaper or even steel wool, you don't know what your going to find so no use sanding anything off. Some of the German color will also come off if you sand and you will get the Mitchell"s Mausers look.

Remember the trick to doing this is to make your stock look like it's 80 years old. No abrasives, no oven cleaners, no harsh strippers, the strongest solvent you use is denatured alcohol.



When you stay away from abrasives you find neat stuff like this, would you want to sand this away? This is a walnut RC stock I redid. The BLO has toned down a might. If the stock isn't a laminate it's more than likely a walnut stock. You don't see many walnut RC stocks and I'm a sucker for a walnut stock.

That's finished with 3 coats of Boiled Linseed Oil first coat cut with turpentine about 25%. Wipe it on, buff it off after about an hour.

So is the BLO what the original German finish is, in terms of doing a restoration? Denatured alcohol to strip the stock clean and then BLO? I'd like to restore the stock and remove the Russian finish to bring it back to a wartime look.
 
So is the BLO what the original German finish is, in terms of doing a restoration? Denatured alcohol to strip the stock clean and then BLO? I'd like to restore the stock and remove the Russian finish to bring it back to a wartime look.

What Sheepdawg said. If it was me, and it looked decent, I'd leave it in the condition that the Russians left it in as that is legitimate K98k history and shows how the Russians reworked them. It would be the same with Norwegian, Iraqi, and DDR reworks.

That said, Crow, I'd use acetone first. Then probably go to a spray on paint and varnish stripper for antiques, such as Blix. I get it in the can and use the pump bottle. Stretch a coat hanger and run the hook through the stock at the well and hang it on a tree branch. Spray on the Blix in the pump bottle and let the stuff run off. Follow the directions on the stripper. Then, come back with a wipe of flaxseed oil (linseed oil). The Germans called for a "stock varnish" which was flaxseed oil based, which is raw, not the same as "BLO", which has chemical driers and such in it.

Regards,
HB
 
Yup the two RC stocks I redid were flaking so bad I had no choice but to redo them. Boiled Linseed Oil is close and used by some European countries on their rifles. There's been a debate as to what the Germans used on their K98ks but I'm sure the BLO you get at the paint store these days isn't exactly what was used. Raw Linseed oil won't dry unless it's heated up but as Hambone said probably closer.

As far as making it look like what it did when issued good lock, your dealing with 75 year old piece of wood. I have some skills with wood but duplicating the look of something done 75 years ago is beyond my talents.

As you also noted everyone has a different way of doing it. I prefer alcohol and plastic putty knives over harsh strippers. Hambone's one of the real experts here so I'm sure his way works too. I'm sure he will agree with me though, no abrasives what so ever.

I just looked real ggod at your pics. Kinda looks like a laminate stock. Should be easy to tell if you pull the buttplate off. To me even more reason to avoid anything harsh.
 
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Sheepdawg, I absolutely do agree with you. The least abrasive and harsh is the best. Depending on what's on the stock it just may be difficult to remove it all with alcohol or even acetone. Alcohol doesn't dry quickly and has water in it, so it will cause rust on metal parts. I've used the Blix antique stripper on original rifles that had nothing done to them other than a coating of varnish:

http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?3128-bcd-42-f-block

On this one I did little more than lightly wipe the stock with Ballistol, probably the closest thing to what was original back then. This rifle had varnish all over it, even slathered and hardened on the metal, the stock discs, buttplate, bands, on the barrel, including the stock. It had hardened and had been on that stock likely since the end of the war, or at least 60s. Acetone wasn't touching it. The Blix (or Home Depot equivalent) took that stuff right off. I didn't use it on the metal. I then wiped the stock with acetone, let it dry, then lightly wiped it with Ballistol and the results are as shown. The heavy varnish actually protected the stock and metal, so it came out like it had been stored in a vacuum or something.
 
When I bought this RC the red shellac was flking off so bad it would get all over me just by picking it up. I found the laminate stock I redid to be a little easier than the walnut one. At least to keep it looking aged. I got $394 for it on Ebay, paid for the RC sitting in it. Put a walnut RC stock on it then, It was flaking even worse and had a small armorer's repair that the sling hides but for $140 I couldn't turn it down. I just like walnut on my K98s. Notice that both stocks are Sauer stocks, the RC is a 37 Sauer to boot. Pretty rare to get a Sauer RC in a Sauer stock. It's still got the ep'd bolt, floorplate, triggerguard, safety, etc on it, not trying to make it anything but a walnut stocked RC K98k.

mauser finished red glue.jpg mauser finished 1.jpg Mauser walnut stock2.jpg
 
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