K43 qve 45 7113A

ittene7

Member
Hello all,

I recently acquired this K43 rifle. It looks like it's been built out of 2 different rifles: 7113A and 1417A. Barrel and gas system are from former and seems like the rest is from the latter. Has an aftermarket gas system already installed. Original gas system and recoil springs were included. Barrel has strong rifling and is mostly shiny, there's some pitting in the grooves towards the muzzle. Stock may have been lightly sanded, not sure. Original sling? Looks old anyways. I think it'll be a good shooter. Any tips or extra info would be greatly appreciated. This forum looks like a great source of knowledge on these rifles.
 

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It's good you have the shooters kit for it already, I would certainly do your own check on the gas system to be sure it's not over gassed even with the kit.

I shoot mine but only once or twice a year and maybe 20 rounds total each time.
 
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It's good you have the shooters kit for it already, I would certainly do your own check on the gas system to be sure it's not over gassed even with the kit.

I shoot mine but only once or twice a year and maybe 20 rounds total each time.
Will do. The previous owner had used the middle-sized plug with modern PPU bulk ammo. I swapped it to the smallest one for first shots. I'm definitely taking it easy on the round count too.
 
Took about 20 shots at the range today. The rifle cycled fine with the smallest plug and locked back every time on empty magazine. It threw the brass about 15ft away. I did have 2 hammer follow malfunctions. I couldn't replicate the issue when cycling by hand so perhaps it's slightly undergassed? The hammer latches before the empty brass gets ejected so i don't know if that could be it. Overall it was fun to shoot.
 
Took about 20 shots at the range today. The rifle cycled fine with the smallest plug and locked back every time on empty magazine. It threw the brass about 15ft away. I did have 2 hammer follow malfunctions. I couldn't replicate the issue when cycling by hand so perhaps it's slightly undergassed? The hammer latches before the empty brass gets ejected so i don't know if that could be it. Overall it was fun to shoot.
I used this method (last few minutes) when testing mine. I would try the medium with this method and see if the malfunctions continue. Then you can decide where you are comfortable at.


 
I've been working on fine-tuning the gas system and adjusting the front sight.

I made my own restrictor plug with a 1mm hole, which wasn't enough to cycle the action. I took a drill with the 1mm bit with me to the range, fired one shot, honed the plug, fired another and honed it again until i was getting the last round hold open on empty magazine every time. Now the rifle cycles reliably, bolt never touches the back of the housing, empty brass gets kicked only about 6ft and most of them seemed to be completely dent-free!

The rifle shot about 3" to the right at 100m. I tried to adjust the front sight post with a punch and a hammer (with a piece of plastic in between) but it didn't move at all even with considerable force. So i then put it in a hydraulic press and that got it moving with ease.
 
Question about the front sight.

The base seems to be slightly canted counter-clockwise. The post needs to be moved quite a bit to the right to achieve zero. Is this typical with these rifles out of the factory? With the witness marks lined up, the post is almost centered on the base so that makes me think the base became like that afterwards. Should i try to straighten it or is it best left untouched?
 

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Question about the front sight.

The base seems to be slightly canted counter-clockwise. The post needs to be moved quite a bit to the right to achieve zero. Is this typical with these rifles out of the factory? With the witness marks lined up, the post is almost centered on the base so that makes me think the base became like that afterwards. Should i try to straighten it or is it best left untouched?
The front sight block is keyed in with a pin iirc, best to leave it alone I think.
 
The front sight block is keyed in with a pin iirc, best to leave it alone I think.
It is pinned in place and it's likely not coming out easily. If the windage holds somewhat true at longer ranges, i might just live with it. Thanks.
 
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