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In need of stock refinishing help

Of course, just use a much coarser grain paper, so if you used say 400/600 and now it looks like a dining room table, go to 80/100/120 and the pores will open up.
Problem is that the more you sand, the more wood you are removing..
 
After quite a bit of research, reading countless threads on various forums, and looking at a fair amount of refinished K98 stocks, I've decided what I'm going to do. This might not be "the best" possible way to do it, but if you have a better way I'm all ears. I'm going to take 120 grit sandpaper, and as carefully as I can, knock down the raised, splintery grain from getting the stock wet during the washing process. The only product I'm going to apply is Tom's 1/3 Mix Military Gunstock Wax - White, which is a combination of BLO, turpentine, and natural white beeswax. Like I said, if anyone has a better idea I'm ALL ears. Thanks.
 
Perhaps in an effort to not do the wrong thing to a stock you intend to keep, you could find a lesser quality stock, cracked or damaged and experiment on that first.
I may be wrong but Tom's products are more aimed at US military walnut stocked rifles such as 03/03a3/Garands..
 
Perhaps in an effort to not do the wrong thing to a stock you intend to keep, you could find a lesser quality stock, cracked or damaged and experiment on that first.
I may be wrong but Tom's products are more aimed at US military walnut stocked rifles such as 03/03a3/Garands..

The Germans original finish was "linseed oil varnish" with sometimes the combination of a stain until they started leaving the factory with nothing on them later in the war. Another product that purists were using is this http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-feed-n-wax.php

I read this on another forum

I never post here anymore, but for the OP I have to. Take another look at the link Hambone posted, and read "Linseed Oil Varnish" one more time. The Germans used this on the wood to keep it from drying out, and if you don't treat your wood with something, it will dry out and become useless.
I'm in agreement with most collectors when they say don't use BLO or Tung Oil, because its something the Germans never used, but Raw Linseed Oil is a different story, and is not harmful to your stock.

Everyone who reads this post needs to understand one thing, you may currently own more than a few rifles, but you guys need to start thinking long term. We are caretakers of these rifles, regardless if they 98ks, M1 Garand's, or South American Mausers, and not treating the wood properly will do damage because the wood will shrink, or possibly dry rot.
I have seen more than a few 98ks over the years that were totally factory matched that were ruined by someone shooting them with dry stocks. Some will crack at the wrist behind the receiver, and in at least one case, the recoil crossbolt started setting back into the stock. When this happens, your rifle is all but useless.

I keep hearing how Linseed Oil will darken the stock, and my answer to that is so what? I bet it was slightly darker when Uncle Bob, or Grandpa brought it home, and do know why? Because the German that owned it actually took care of it. When German Soldiers did not have Linseed Oil, they would use anything they could to include; cooking oil, sun flower oil, and even motor oil. I know this to be fact because I've actually spoken to several German WWII Vets when I was visiting the In Laws in the Iron Mountains.

Fifty years from now, every 98k that I own will be in the hands of someone else, hopefully to another collector that will get lots of joy out of them as I do. The difference between my 98ks and others will be mine can be shot without damage to the stock because its completely dried out.

I'm positive the usual suspects will pile on after this post lamenting on how I've "ruined" my rifles from just a little bit of oil, but I'm not taking the bait, and will ignore these so called "experts".

If you believe what I've said is BS, I urge anyone with that dried out "all original" stock to head out to the range and put 50 rounds of Milsurp grade ammo down the pipe. Maybe nothing will happen, but if your stock cracks, remember, you were briefed.
 
When I hear about stocks needs to be fed or treated or whatever, I think about how people say the same things about old leather. This stuff just ages, it gets old, it comes apart. Its going to happen. Its time. We can sort of delay it by not abusing it, or storing it in bad conditions, but it doesn't matter in the end. Nothing invented yet prevents this, stops it, or reverses it.

Riding around on a two-hundred year old horse saddle makes no sense, and at a certain point, shooting an old rifle with a wooden stock won't either. Who would ride around on 100 year old tires? I've seen dry stocks, and they seem okay on display, but I probably wouldn't shoot them. I've seen oil soaked stocks that look like hell, and that crumble if you look at them wrong. I'm just not convinced that there is a right solution here, only differing degrees of bad.
 
Has the cosmoline been sweated out of the stock before this fool's errand was undertaken?
 
Has the cosmoline been sweated out of the stock before this fool's errand was undertaken?

Thanks for your skilled comments. I'm not sure if you knew this or not, but it is a sin to sand your stock. Yes, the cosmoline has been properly removed. I ended up putting 2 coats of Howards on it instead of Toms 1/3 Wax and it turned out great. Good luck.
 
Thanks for your skilled comments. I'm not sure if you knew this or not, but it is a sin to sand your stock. Yes, the cosmoline has been properly removed. I ended up putting 2 coats of Howards on it instead of Toms 1/3 Wax and it turned out great. Good luck.

Howards is a good product. First time I used some of this was on a MAS-36. Bought it from a gunbroker seller in OR that must have had cats and smoked alot of cigarettes because when it arrived at my dealers shop it stunk so bad they couldnt wait for me to pick it up. That Cat piss/cigarette smoke stench was tough to get out of the wood. I tried a simple wipe down with Hoppes hoping that it would kill the smell, but that didnt help. I tried acetone and it also didnt help. I finally got it out by removing the metal and washing the wood with regualr dish washing soap and letting it air dry. After dry I rubbed a couple coats of Howards Feed n Wax and it restored the original look. I have not tried this on a K98, but dont see any reason why it would do any harm to a stock that is in need.
 

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