How to Restore K98k Stock

frankie

Junior Member
I recently acquired a K98k stock and the previous owner had cleaned it with oven-off, then "took it to a car wash", then left it dry for a number of years. I'm trying to restore the stock, but aside from being dry, the PO used something to scrape the stock; as a result, there are a lot of small divots. I have researched the use of feed and wax and have applied two coats, but what bothers me are the divots. It seems the only thing to do would be to lightly sand, but would it be advisable to first varnish the stock so the edges of the divots would harden and be more easily sanded? Or would "glassing", as was done with Garand stocks be advisable to try as a means to smooth the surface? Attached is an example of what the surface looks like now; notice the small divots at left and right at the bottom of the pic.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6578.jpg
    IMG_6578.jpg
    191.2 KB · Views: 121
Last edited:
Is the stock worth restoring? We'd have to see more of it. It may not be worth the trouble. Just the mention of K98 stock and the word "sand" are like hearing fingernails on a chalkboard to most of us here.
 
Is the stock worth restoring? We'd have to see more of it. It may not be worth the trouble. Just the mention of K98 stock and the word "sand" are like hearing fingernails on a chalkboard to most of us here.
Your response is most welcome! The stock is absolutely worth restoring and I am very hesitant to sand, just don't know anything else to try. I read some lengthy threads about stock treatment before using the wax and feed. Most of the problem is from the receiver area towards the rear of the stock. I'm pretty sure that a light (fingers on chalkboard) would clean up most if not all of it, but wanted to get expert opinions before considering that because I only get one chance to get it right.
 
In this hobby "less is best" so I'd say leave it as is. Can't undo it but could for sure make it worse. It all falls on you but I'd leave it be.
 
Put some 1/3 Finn wax on it and leave it be. No matter what you do to it, its going to make it worse. I cant tell you how many stocks Ive started working with the intention of 'just fixing this little thing' and it always progresses to sanding. Do not sand a K98 stock. Even a moderately worn out and dirty stock is going to hold better value than anything sanded. Dont care about the value of the stock and just want to make it look better? Buy another stock. I dont even advise the iron/steam method as it will lead you down a rabbit hole that ends with sandpaper.

Honestly. 5 or 6 coats of Toms 1/3 Finn wax and the stock will look 100% better.
 
Put some 1/3 Finn wax on it and leave it be. No matter what you do to it, its going to make it worse. I cant tell you how many stocks Ive started working with the intention of 'just fixing this little thing' and it always progresses to sanding. Do not sand a K98 stock. Even a moderately worn out and dirty stock is going to hold better value than anything sanded. Dont care about the value of the stock and just want to make it look better? Buy another stock. I dont even advise the iron/steam method as it will lead you down a rabbit hole that ends with sandpaper.

Honestly. 5 or 6 coats of Toms 1/3 Finn wax and the stock will look 100% better.
How would Toms react with the Howard's already on the stock? By the way, I tried glassing, and the results looked pretty good until the wax and feed which glassing raised to the surface soaked back in and the stock became fuzzy again.
 
What type of wood is it? red glue laminate, white glue laminate or solid? I've dealt with a few rescues where the previous owner used Easy-Off. Did you do anything to the stock before applying the feed and wax? If it was mine, i'd strip off the feed and wax....i haven't had much luck with it personally with really damaged stocks.

Here's a process i've used in the past on red glue and solid stocks:

First, take off as much of the metal parts from the stock as possible. It makes life easier. Next, you need to make sure the previous owner properly neutralized the oven cleaner. In my experience, oven cleaner has a nasty habit of hanging around in the wood and will create future problems. A good scrubbing with a soft cloth and a gallon of white vinegar works. A soft toothbrush works well to get in the recesses. To be safe, I gave my stocks two scrubs inside and out to make sure I got everything. Let it dry for a day or two between scubbings. I rinsed off the stock with water after the 2nd vinegar scrub. Then set the stock aside and let it dry out completely for at least a week. The goal was to give any remaining moisture in the stock a chance to dry out. Only after the stock is completely dry, then you can reintroduce oil back into the stock. The oven cleaner method of stock stripping is extreme and leaches of the natural oils in the wood leaving it dry as dirt. I used a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil (BLO) and turpentine and rubbed in in with a clean rag. I had one stock that was really gone and increased the turpentine to get the BLO to soak in deeper. Pure gum turpentine worked better for me...i didn't have much luck with the new low odor environmentally-friendly turpentine replacement . The thinned BLO penetrates the wood much deeper than straight BLO. I coated the stock and went back over the dry areas in a couple of minutes and kept doing it until i got to the point when there really weren't any more areas that were dry on the stock. i let it sit for a while and then wiped off anything that seeped out. Don't let the BLO dry on the surface...if you see beads of thinned BLO seeping out just wipe them off before they dry. Once, the beads stop forming and the wiped surface looks dry. Set the stock aside and let it dry completely. I generally leave it for a couple of weeks before i would consider doing anything else. The longer it sits, the more the smell of the BLO and turpentine dissipate. It's a slow process but if you rush it, things tend not to go well.

IMO, white glue stocks are a heck of a lot trickier to deal with.
 
I have been down this path a few times (restoring sporters or 'saving' RC's). Originally I started with "Danish Oil" and eventually progressed to "Howards". Now I generally go with "Ballistol" or "Ballistol Schaft Oil". Ballistol is at least a period correct wood and metal protector. I have also used "Scherell's Schaft Oil" - if good enough for one of my 100+ year old British Best SxS's, why not for a military rifle....?

For some heavy restorations (where the stock or metal is far gone), I do a special mix of Linseed Oil, Varsol and Pine Tar - great surface rust remover and from experience, for a really bad and far gone stock this mix can work wonders (I have had lots of luck with Swiss or Swedish rifles that have been stored poorly).

*As others have said and especially with K98's less is generally more. Remember, this is not a M1 Garand stock that has been oiled multiple times in possibly three or more major conflicts.*
 
Back
Top