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Hinsoldt-wetzlar 4x scope

A while back I built a m48 "k98 sniper" clone and had picked up a 4x hensoldt wetzlar scope and am looking for references on how this scope works. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
 

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A while back I built a m48 "k98 sniper" clone and had picked up a 4x hensoldt wetzlar scope and am looking for references on how this scope works. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
Please show pictures of the scope and mounts
From the side. This looks like a long side rail mount. I can’t see your actual scope. If the mount like an original, the square head adjustment screw on the rear of the mount controls windage (Left to right) point of impact.
I use a small adjustable tap holder to turn this.
It is hardened and can be adjusted to fit the screw head very tightly. There should also be a large screw head under the front mount (the pivot). Make sure this is fairly snug. The rear screw should be able to comfortably (with some resistance) be turned to allow for adjustment. If the front screw is very loose, your efforts are in vain.
First fire 3 round groups ( I start with 50 yards, just to get it on paper) until the point of impact is center of the target.
The turret on top is used for up and down adjustment. Generally, the outer cover with the range dial on this turret can be loosened or removed (model specific) to allow the horizontal lines of the reticule to be zeroed up or down for the point of impact @100 meters. Once that is established, the range wheel can be calibrated to match.
If you installed this scope, it will take a bit of work to make this functional, if at all. There is a possibility of you running out of adjustment one way or the other. Others may have things to add.
Need to see the elevation housing
 

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Here are some pictures. Hope they help
 

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Please show pictures of the scope and mounts
From the side. This looks like a long side rail mount. I can’t see your actual scope. If the mount like an original, the square head adjustment screw on the rear of the mount controls windage (Left to right) point of impact.
I use a small adjustable tap holder to turn this.
It is hardened and can be adjusted to fit the screw head very tightly. There should also be a large screw head under the front mount (the pivot). Make sure this is fairly snug. The rear screw should be able to comfortably (with some resistance) be turned to allow for adjustment. If the front screw is very loose, your efforts are in vain.
First fire 3 round groups ( I start with 50 yards, just to get it on paper) until the point of impact is center of the target.
The turret on top is used for up and down adjustment. Generally, the outer cover with the range dial on this turret can be loosened or removed (model specific) to allow the horizontal lines of the reticule to be zeroed up or down for the point of impact @100 meters. Once that is established, the range wheel can be calibrated to match.
If you installed this scope, it will take a bit of work to make this functional, if at all. There is a possibility of you running out of adjustment one way or the other. Others may have things to add.
Need to see the elevation housing
I shared some pictures of the scope on this forum. How would I know if this model can allow the range wheel to be calibrated cause that does sound useful as I do intend to use this for hunting
 
I shared some pictures of the scope on this forum. How would I know if this model can allow the range wheel to be calibrated cause that does sound useful as I do intend to use this for hunting
I haven’t encountered one so far from that era that can’t be adjusted.
The 2 small screws on the top of the elevation housing come off, the center cap lifts off and the range wheel ( such as it is ) should be able to move independently of the reticle adjuster.
I can’t see if there are any factory markings on your wheel. You would want the point of impact at 100 meters to be calibrated to the stop on the wheel at its lowest indicator 1 on a wheel with 1,2,3,4 etc.( should also end up with the reticle more or less in the center of the field of view.
If you’re mechanical, you should be able to see how it works pretty easily.
Edit: You can bore sight this initially and save some rounds. Pull the bolt out, place the weapon in a Vice or stand or even on some books. Look down the barrel and line the bore up with a vertical object @100 yards away.
Carefully look though the scope and see if you’re looking exactly at what you see down the barrel. This works very well if done carefully.
 
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A few pics of a Scope that is same as yours . The scope was used on SSR this particular scope sports what most collectors refer to as the Early BMJ Dial .
I am also attaching another photo showing exactly what a pristine dial looks like , also do a comparison to the 1st pic I posted and You will see the Hensoldt on SSR has same stop screw set up . I am posting the pics to show what type of dial you would need to find which would not be easy .

Your other choice could be to use Your Dial and engrave range markings on to the Scale Plate , you would need to replicate the range markings from another range dial to get the calibration correct . You could have Your Scale Ring laser engraved with range marking from 1-8 or 1 2 3 meter markings which ever you prefer . Hope this helps you
 

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Does it say which Model it made for ?? For $40 bucks it maybe worth buying and trying . If You remove to 2 screws in the top of the dial on your scope there is a center plate which holds the scale ring in place . The 2 screws do not hold the Dial in place only the the center plate for the Scale Ring . The scale ring that comes with the new parts may fit and you may not need to replace any other pieces . If it was me I would take a chance on this Parts Kit ,
 
Strange website. No “contact us” or about us or address. Be careful with your info.
If I do go this route I might just get it with a visa gift card.

I'm curious though on when this scope was made cause through my research so far I haven't found a scope that shares the german t post with a black dot in the middle.
 
Blasterfactory is big on FB apparently. Looks like they make a bunch of stuff. Odd how someone who seems obsessed with star wars fantasy guns has a scope rebuild kit for a Hensoldt. Good to know.
 
If I do go this route I might just get it with a visa gift card.

I'm curious though on when this scope was made cause through my research so far I haven't found a scope that shares the german t post with a black dot in the middle.
Your Scope is Pre War Hensoldt Dialytan . The Reticule in your Scope is pictured in The Book Old Rifle Scope being one thats available/offered for Zeiss Scope . The typical/manufactured Reticule found in Your Scope is a single vertical pointed post with a thin wire horizontal reticule .
 
Your Scope is Pre War Hensoldt Dialytan . The Reticule in your Scope is pictured in The Book Old Rifle Scope being one thats available/offered for Zeiss Scope . The typical/manufactured Reticule found in Your Scope is a single vertical pointed post with a thin wire horizontal reticule .
What is the ring towards the back of the scope that has the screw for? Also would you know of any "accessories" that would fit on the scope like a sunshade, etc?
 
That band behind your rear ring is a focus adjuster. It should rotate to allow each user to fine tune focus.
A sunshade screws into threads inside the front of a scope. Yours is not threaded
 
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That band behind your rear ring is a focus adjuster. It should rotate to allow each user to fine tune focus.
A sunshade screws into threads inside the front of a scope. Yours is not threaded

What is the ring towards the back of the scope that has the screw for? Also would you know of any "accessories" that would fit on the scope like a sunshade, etc?

Exactly as Rick mentions . Just one thing if the Focus Ring is not moving try loosening the screw in the center of the ring , but don't loosen to much just 1 or 2 turns if need be
 
I haven’t encountered one so far from that era that can’t be adjusted.
The 2 small screws on the top of the elevation housing come off, the center cap lifts off and the range wheel ( such as it is ) should be able to move independently of the reticle adjuster.
I can’t see if there are any factory markings on your wheel. You would want the point of impact at 100 meters to be calibrated to the stop on the wheel at its lowest indicator 1 on a wheel with 1,2,3,4 etc.( should also end up with the reticle more or less in the center of the field of view.
If you’re mechanical, you should be able to see how it works pretty easily.
Edit: You can bore sight this initially and save some rounds. Pull the bolt out, place the weapon in a Vice or stand or even on some books. Look down the barrel and line the bore up with a vertical object @100 yards away.
Carefully look though the scope and see if you’re looking exactly at what you see down the barrel. This works very well if done carefully.
Would you know where I can find the specs of the crosshairs like how wide of an area does the crosshair cover? Or any way to get a guess of range of a target using just the crosshairs?
 
Your scope is more like an early sport dot reticle then a German number 1. Find objects of known sizes at known distances and take notes. All snipers have their own dope notes. The marks on your scale ring may or may not be relevant to how your rifle now performs. Who knows the history of what this was mounted on? Might have been a different caliber. You’re going to have to wring it out.
 
Does it say which Model it made for ?? For $40 bucks it maybe worth buying and trying . If You remove to 2 screws in the top of the dial on your scope there is a center plate which holds the scale ring in place . The 2 screws do not hold the Dial in place only the the center plate for the Scale Ring . The scale ring that comes with the new parts may fit and you may not need to replace any other pieces . If it was me I would take a chance on this Parts Kit ,
I was thinking. If this replacement disk is for a 3x scope and mine is a 4x scope, the distance markers might not line up quite exactly. Would that be correct?
 

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