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Grandfathers Mauser ID!

Very cool rifle, we would love to see more and the other items too if you don’t mind. This is an SS contract rifle produced by Steyr, either in 1943 or 1944 depending on some other features and barrel code.

As requested here are the assorted knives and attachments he had wrapped in clothes in a box on a shelf with a few of his patches and some trinkets. This stuff I never even saw him take out before. I dont know the signifigance of any of the items here like the lone bullet or shell casings.

Any details anyone knows about that stuff id love to hear. Hoping to build a display case soon for all this stuff
 

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Couple more of the knives
 

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Few more closer
 

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Last ones of knives
 

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And heres the pins and assorteds
 

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My condolences on the passing of your grandfather. Such men were truly of The Greatest Generation.

A nice SS contract 98k and a vis35 Radom pistol would be very welcome additions to anyone's collection. That both were brought home by your grandad makes them all the sweeter -- you've been richly blessed!

Now you need to get after that surface oxidation before it gets worse. Use only Ballistol, and no tools more aggressive than a stiff toothbrush. Rust doesn't add value, no matter how "original" it might be!

Congratulations!

Richie
 
My condolences on the passing of your grandfather. Such men were truly of The Greatest Generation.

A nice SS contract 98k and a vis35 Radom pistol would be very welcome additions to anyone's collection. That both were brought home by your grandad makes them all the sweeter -- you've been richly blessed!

Now you need to get after that surface oxidation before it gets worse. Use only Ballistol, and no tools more aggressive than a stiff toothbrush. Rust doesn't add value, no matter how "original" it might be!

Congratulations!

Richie

Will do! Thank you all for the info and tips!

Any tips on shooting? Specific ammunition?
 
Nice rifle! Some nice bayonets aswell. WW 2 german k98k bayo (one with dark blued blade and dark colored grip). Pre war polish wz29 bayo (one with most of the bluing missing and marked W.P.). and WW1 german gew98 bayo (the one with the fat blade). All valuable, including the ones I didnt mention. Sorry to hear of his passing, but boy he left you with some great things. Certainly all should be cherished for many years to come.

John.
 
Will do! Thank you all for the info and tips!

Any tips on shooting? Specific ammunition?

The rifle is not the most common...atleast not in this original condition, so I and many others here will probably suggest you not shoot it. If you choose to, please shoot modern production ammo like PPU. Its non corrosive and not loaded as hot as the surplus ammo. But really it should just be preserved and left as is. In my opinion.


John.
 
To tell you the truth one of these bayonets is quite special. The Harens Tojhus bayonet is for a Danish Krag that is quite a scarce bayonet here in the states. Believe that is the Model 1915 variation and I think it's unit marked as well.

The S98/05 butcher looks like it was updated in the Weimer period with the blade being blued.
 
The knife with 3 screws is an Italian fighting knife. Not sure of the actual designation.
 
The rifle is not the most common...atleast not in this original condition, so I and many others here will probably suggest you not shoot it. If you choose to, please shoot modern production ammo like PPU. Its non corrosive and not loaded as hot as the surplus ammo. But really it should just be preserved and left as is. In my opinion.


John.

Understood, I didnt realize it was on that level of collectors. In that case, it will be as you say!
 
Nice rifle! Some nice bayonets aswell. WW 2 german k98k bayo (one with dark blued blade and dark colored grip). Pre war polish wz29 bayo (one with most of the bluing missing and marked W.P.). and WW1 german gew98 bayo (the one with the fat blade). All valuable, including the ones I didnt mention. Sorry to hear of his passing, but boy he left you with some great things. Certainly all should be cherished for many years to come.

John.

Any good tips for maintaining the blades? In oils in particular to preserve?

Thank you for the information?
 
Your grandfather gifted you with firearms worth several thousand Dollars (counting in the VIS Radom pistol). Unless you need the money, keep these items - you'll never again get family acquired property from a war again. And if you ever decide to part, remember the large value these items have and don't let them go too cheap. This was also the reason why many people in here recommended you to not shoot these guns - if this results in any damage, you lost a huge amount of money, compared to when shooting with a cheap "mixmaster" rifle which anyway don't have much value and therefore not much to be lost in case of a damage.
 
I agree with Bob in Ohio I would have let it alone also, treating any rust areas with cloth & oil only, but I figured the op went straight to you tube and started cleaning. I had already assumed he would or would be in the process of cleaning it


I would not shoot
 
Thank you very much for the information! This is a fascinating dialogue!


And another question. Would there be any issue at all in taking this to the range in your minds?

I would suggest acquiring a Russian Capture or other mismatched K98 if you want to sling 7.92mm bullets down range. That way if/when something breaks, chips, scuffs, cracks, etc. it’s not a family heirloom that loses historical value when repaired.
 
Great rifle and a nice little 'instant collection' you've been gifted. I'd wipe down the rust with some oil on a soft cloth but that's me. Other than that I agree with what everyone else is saying. No messing with the stock. No trying to make it look purdy or shiiny. I REALLY wouldn't shoot this one. Not even 1 round but again that's just me. Congrats!!

Now not to be the word police but details do matter so... 'Proof' is the term for using an overpressure round to test the integrity of the bolt, receiver and barrel and is indicated by an eagle stamp like one on the rear flat of the bolt root or the left side of the barrel/receiver very near their mating point. Those marks being discussed such as the e/77 (eagle over) which is for the Radom plant in Poland as mentioned would be an 'acceptance' done by a team using either visual, measurement or fixture to confirm the suitability of that component machining step for use in production. Those parts that failed would be marked for corrective work or scrapped if too far out of spec.

Parts were made at the Gusen subcamp as mentioned but assembly was carried out at a Steyr plant, not in Steyr but rather Molln. Here's some info from MRJ written by Loewe that I believe is pretty accurate. https://militaryriflejournal.wordpress.com/2013/12/05/steyrs-world-war-ii-rifle-production/
 
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I would suggest acquiring a Russian Capture or other mismatched K98 if you want to sling 7.92mm bullets down range. That way if/when something breaks, chips, scuffs, cracks, etc. it’s not a family heirloom that loses historical value when repaired.

Since you've received this rifle as an inheritance (i.e. "for free"), why not keep your eye peeled for a nice .22LR trainer (KKW or DSM)? Or a nice Erma K98k .22LR conversion unit? Averaged together with the 98k and Radom, your investment in such would be minimal.
 
Looks like you have a Camo paint on the bayonet scabbard. Just doubles the value. Do not clean the paint off it or oil it. Post a pic and see if your numbers match. The combat k98 bayonet. Larry
 
Looks like you have a Camo paint on the bayonet scabbard. Just doubles the value. Do not clean the paint off it or oil it. Post a pic and see if your numbers match. The combat k98 bayonet. Larry

I think that’s the scabbard for the Polish bayonet and the normal color finish for it. Actually quite nice.


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