Duffle Cut Repairs, Beyond the Duplicator.

[jsz]

I have been making more progress on some k98 stock repairs.
The first one was duffle cut below the lower band and long separated. Cut a duplicate out of beech ply and carefully fit it to the byf 43 , I have had for many years and wished to restore the wood. The duffel blank has been epoxied to the stock, it will require final fitting, once the epoxy has set. From there the I will start the finishing process including some faux red glue highlights to conceal some degree the open splice. Then some stain and then will be ready for metal fit up.
Next stock is a late 44 or 45 k98 stock that is complete and matching including bands and hand guard, unfortunately the bolt area of the stock was cut for a modified bolt. I built a jig and routed out the area of the damaged bolt cut out and then attached a beech ply blank and proceeded to carefully shape it to the existing stock contours. It is now ready for some faux red glue joints and then some stain.
Will update after finishing is complete.
jeff

 

[THunter]

Excellent work and craftsmanship!

 

[Muncher 1953]

I have been making more progress on some k98 stock repairs.
The first one was duffle cut below the lower band and long separated. Cut a duplicate out of beech ply and carefully fit it to the byf 43 , I have had for many years and wished to restore the wood. The duffel blank has been epoxied to the stock, it will require final fitting, once the epoxy has set. From there the I will start the finishing process including some faux red glue highlights to conceal some degree the open splice. Then some stain and then will be ready for metal fit up.
Next stock is a late 44 or 45 k98 stock that is complete and matching including bands and hand guard, unfortunately the bolt area of the stock was cut for a modified bolt. I built a jig and routed out the area of the damaged bolt cut out and then attached a beech ply blank and proceeded to carefully shape it to the existing stock contours. It is now ready for some faux red glue joints and then some stain.
Will update after finishing is complete.
jeff

nicely done in a 'period' manner!

 

[jsz]

Spent so more time working on the stocks and wanted to share the progress. Mostly been working on the byf 43, which was cut below the rear band and finishing the stock work on a 1903a4 I have been restoring.
After final sanding and fitment on the byf 43, I then applied a yellow gold toner to artificial age the wood to match the raw wood of the original stock. A combination of mahogany and different brown stains were applied. Currently, I have a seal coat on and will reassess if more toner needs to be added. I may leave slightly lighter, since the new beech blank will darken some with age.
I will share more as I fit the wood to the metal.

 

[Hambone]

Well done jsz and pic stickied.

 

[waw44]

Spent so more time working on the stocks and wanted to share the progress. Mostly been working on the byf 43, which was cut below the rear band and finishing the stock work on a 1903a4 I have been restoring.
After final sanding and fitment on the byf 43, I then applied a yellow gold toner to artificial age the wood to match the raw wood of the original stock. A combination of mahogany and different brown stains were applied. Currently, I have a seal coat on and will reassess if more toner needs to be added. I may leave slightly lighter, since the new beech blank will darken some with age.
I will share more as I fit the wood to the metal.

Can you share the specific products you are using for the coloring?

 

[jsz]

I use a combination of many things from an analine dyes, Japan colors, shellac, a mixture BLO /tung oil / mineral spirits, sometimes even colored waxes. Of course not all these at once, you really have to read the stock and go from there. The ones that are most challenging is the late war stocks that only had stain on them, that grayish brown color and is very dry since no sealer was applied. That one is tough to replicate.
jeff

 

[waw44]

I use a combination of many things from an analine dyes, Japan colors, shellac, a mixture BLO /tung oil / mineral spirits, sometimes even colored waxes. Of course not all these at once, you really have to read the stock and go from there. The ones that are most challenging is the late war stocks that only had stain on them, that grayish brown color and is very dry since no sealer was applied. That one is tough to replicate.
jeff

OK, not trying to be an a$$, but that really does not answer my question. Am i missing something? Is there a reason people don't want to give specific answers? I know color matching is case by case basis and rarely you do the same thing twice, but why not share the specific?

For example, Je Moser's analine dye or something else? There are three walnut varieties, or do you use some other manufacturer's? Which specific color codes? Same thing for Japan color. Do you use Ronan's Japan color, or something else? Shelac, do you make your own with flakes, or use a pre made mix? Which flakes?

 

[jsz]

Thanks for the snarky response. First of all I can give you all the products by name, (maybe conversing in a PM), what I cant give you is the mixing ratios the reducers or retarders, because when I start a project everything is trail and error and reading the wood and existing finishes. Why, because you have so many variables, such as age of the wood, density, if it’s old oil stained, the time frame the original stock was made, post war dressings, adhesive bleed and etc.. Then let’s talk about application, I use everything from brushes, sponges, rags and sometimes two stage air brushes. So if I give you the magic formula that’s only half the battle and I am afraid you wouldn’t be happy if you didn’t get adequate results.
Furthermore, you seem to want the knowledge but don’t want to put in your time to learning the skills, they take time and many failures, however they yield valuable learning points to adjust and modify for better results. I have been doing this for 45 years plus , so with success has come many failures.
What I can suggest is head to your local art supply, purchase a few products and learn. More then willing to share some of my techniques in person, with anyone.

 

[waw44]

My reply was not snark.

Like others, I am very impressed with your work here and, like I already said, I was not expecting a magic bullet. What I wanted to do is create a baseline, specific products in specific quantities, and go from there. A starting point for the trial and error. As you said, there are multiple variables and I know that no two stocks are the same, or aged the same.

You have been doing this for more years than I have been alive, but that does not mean I was looking for the easy way out. When I did my fairly simple stock project with a Minelis repro stock I tried to share as many details as I thought of with the community, because that's how we all learn from each other. https://www.k98kforum.com/threads/walnut-stock-finish.49929/ All I was hoping for is the same.

 

[jsz]

I finished the byf43 final finish is complete and rifle is assembled. Very happy with the results.
Here is a few milestone photos of the process from duplicating to finish.

 

[Sauer_Kraut]

Geez, take about skill. I guess there are some actual craftsmen still kicking about.

 

[Tater792]

Beautiful work for sure, very impressive !

 

[MrB]

Impressive. A labor of love.

 

[jsz]

I have had a few requests for kriegs duffle cut pieces. So I made a master out of cherry and the same time made another master for the earlier stock assembly. I have decided to leave the kriegs master front section longer to allow for variations of manufactures varying lengths between bands. The big issue is if the new laminate blank has to be longer, such as what I did on the byf 42, sourcing the material will be about impossible. A two piece splice can be done where the splice is located below the rear band, which will solve the longer blank issue. White glue adds a whole other challenge.

 

[biggymu]

I have had a few requests for kriegs duffle cut pieces. So I made a master out of cherry and the same time made another master for the earlier stock assembly. I have decided to leave the kriegs master front section longer to allow for variations of manufactures varying lengths between bands. The big issue is if the new laminate blank has to be longer, such as what I did on the byf 42, sourcing the material will be about impossible. A two piece splice can be done where the splice is located below the rear band, which will solve the longer blank issue. White glue adds a whole other challenge.

You might be able to salvage enough wood from ruined sporter stocks using the buttstock area to produce your duffle cut pieces?

 

[jsz]

Yep looked at that. I dont think there is enough material with the narrow portion where the sling cut out is.

 

[Hudson]

Holy shite you actually built a stock duplicator. I thought this was a hand cut one -off you made till I saw the last batch of pictures. Well done. Are you in the business of stock repair? Any plans to sell duffle cut replacement sections for us plebes that like to repair sporters but can’t find the wood?

 

[joryfreeburg]

Really exceptional work featured in this thread.... Very nice