After working on it with vinegar and a towel since I posted the pics I think I agree with you. I have most of the cold blue gone and the phosphate is showing again pretty well. Day and night. Getting the cold blue out of the machining marks will be the challenging partI like it! I don’t think that the finish is so bad that you should re-phosphate it. It could end up looking worse??
Told you it was cold blue . Happy to hear I was right. Looking forward to see the comparison pictures.After working on it with vinegar and a towel since I posted the pics I think I agree with you. I have most of the cold blue gone and the phosphate is showing again pretty well. Day and night. Getting the cold blue out of the machining marks will be the challenging part
Georg, I'm very glad that you were right!Told you it was cold blue . Happy to hear I was right. Looking forward to see the comparison pictures.
Even not considering this: I'd never refinish it. Any future owner can still do this, but you can never undo this. There are very few cases where a refinish is the best option, and there are very few cases to which this applies (for example if an item is already refinished, but wrongly like dip blued, etc.).
PS: Since the rear sight base itself is not serialized, welding on a ring might turn out to be worse than to just replace the rear sight base with another phosphate one, especially since you'll have to refinish just the handguard retaining portion. Just a personal thought ..
another possible technique would be to dampen patches with vinegar, then using a toothbrush on top of said patch, use small circular motions to scrub the cold blue from stamp & machine marks. the patches will draw the cold blue up into themselves & off the surface. use a new toothbrush, one that has never seen toothpaste.BTW, might be worth trying the Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover, that thing works pretty fast, and it won't touch the phosphate finish. I've used that on a dip (re)blued rifle once just to have it straw blued afterwards, worked super fast. Should remove all the blueing in the inscription as on your rifle. Use a paint brush to apply, let it do its magic (takes less than a minute) and then carefully clean with a bronze/brass brush.
I'm glad you like it! I may not put a FSH on this one as it may have not had one on it, the FSH channel does have some wear on it but I cannot tell if that was from one or just from Bubba messing around.Super cool how it turned out! Also you'll need a front sight cover. I'll check if I have a Steyr one somewhere around when I get to it, could very well be. Did you try that Birchwood Casey stuff?
I won't be touching the finish on this one, after stripping the bluing I think it retains enough finish to not refinish.I love that bolt shroud and the cocking piece. Gnarly.
Personally I would leave the rifle as is. I would not refinish it. I might be tempted to put a replacement rear sight base in instead of welding/refinishing.
I probably have a scrap of laminate stock you could use to fill the spring slot, but I am not sure how you would match the stock. I might be able to cut you a piece that has enough exterior that you could shape it.... I'll have to think on the best way to do that.
Once again Mike I appreciate it! I just ordered your "payment" this morning let me know how you like it!That stock really enhanced the look of the metal, it has a good look. Thank @flynaked, I got it from him and have been saving it for a worthy donor. And I agree, don’t refinish anything.