Third Party Press

'44 BYF on the '"boards"

I would say the stock side proof is obviously sanded to me.. whether that is with steel wool or sandpaper not sure.. but fuzzy looking always makes me think “sanded”

The stock also looks darker in some areas (bolt takedown disc) for instance which makes me think it was cleaned then oiled..
 
Opinion on the seller aside, what are the indications this stock was sanded ? Just the lighter tone ? I don’t see any edges softened, like in a sanded stock? Also , what would a common code byf44 run , to be fair ?
He says in his description that it is.
 
Pgaplayerless? I don't recall where he was from, there is a big thread here and on Gunboards about it, just search for "a sniper so rare" and it should pull up...
Ah ok not the same guy. There was a guy in Beaufort, SC who was a lawyer and had a super rare SS sniper. I know it made its rounds on Facebook and cannot remember which forums. He swore it was real by a book having a photo of a rifle with the same stock toe repair. I actually met him in person before he was destroyed online and he offered it to me for sale.
 
Cheese Danish aside...My earlier M.O.s have directional machine/grind marks not a "cross-hatch" like that in evidence on this '44. Latest one I own is a '43. The 1's and 7's are pretty unique for M.O. with that distinct "flare" on the leg. Is that a good font marker, or is my noob showing.
 
I saw that on GBs and thought the bolt was boinked too. I agree with the cross hatch grinding, and it looks like there is another number under the 5. Could be wrong thought. I thought the price was crazy too.
 
My :giggle: BYF 44 for comparison.

Just a little back story the old man brought home two. One he gave one away, this one I discovered at age 8 in the closet. Asked my dad about it he said "its yours now".
That was 62 years ago.
 

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Beautiful and textbook! Looks unfired. I love L blocks you could build a collection of them alone. In fact I bet Bruce has that collection!
 
Oh you need to get out with that beauty. I'm heading out later today myself.
How can I tell which block I have? And does it matter?
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Oh you need to get out with that beauty. I'm heading out later today myself.
How can I tell which block I have? And does it matter?
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Look at your serial number, if there is letter in the serial number on the receiver then thats your letter block. If no letter is next too your serial number then you have a first block rifle.
 
Look at your serial number, if there is letter in the serial number on the receiver then thats your letter block. If no letter is next too your serial number then you have a first block rifle.
Thx,1st block then. Is there some prominence to that? Also have another series of characters near by. The first that can be seen is mostly obscured but there may be others, have never had the stock off, followed by a very odd looking 4(?) then D 563. Its all greek to me?
 

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Thx,1st block then. Is there some prominence to that? Also have another series of characters near by. The first that can be seen is mostly obscured but there may be others, have never had the stock off, followed by a very odd looking 4(?) then D 563. Its all greek to me?
Mmm not really cause its just a K98K but a hardcore collector would probably be more interested (maybe?) Because of the production traits. Without pics or your own thread with pictures its very difficult to figure out what your talking about until you provide those. Your other series of characters im guessing are on the barrel which could be inspection markings or steel lot codes.
 
Mmm not really cause its just a K98K but a hardcore collector would probably be more interested (maybe?) Because of the production traits. Without pics or your own thread with pictures its very difficult to figure out what your talking about until you provide those. Your other series of characters im guessing are on the barrel which could be inspection markings or steel lot codes
Ok thank you for your thoughts.
 
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