1st K98K! - byf 1944 All Matching - Need Help!

W

werra

Member
Hello All,

I just acquired my 1st Mauser! Based on my research here, it is an all matching 1944 byf K block. I need help with knowing what, if anything I should do about its condition. It is pitted (the bolt and floor plate are the worst. There is almost no blueing left as best I can tell. The ejector spring and band spring are broken and the cleaning rod is missing. Don't know how to tell if the stock has been sanded. No marking on the stock. The bore is very nice though. There are no import markings (vet bring back).

I paid $600 for it. Was it worth it??? I would like to know more about it. Is it a good one?

Thanks!

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looks like the rifle was acid cleaned to get all the rust off of it. That grey looking finish is a result of the acid cleaning. Stock was sanded heavily that's why no proofs are left on it. Shoot it if it looks like it has a fair bore, but don't expect a profit if you sell it.
 
gill120 said:
looks like the rifle was acid cleaned to get all the rust off of it. That grey looking finish is a result of the acid cleaning. Stock was sanded heavily that's why no proofs are left on it. Shoot it if it looks like it has a fair bore, but don't expect a profit if you sell it.
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Thanks for the reply. Looks like I got burned on this one. I guess that's how you learn. At least it still has historical value. Hopefully it will be a good shooter. If not, a $600 wall hanger I guess.
 
werra said:
..Looks like I got burned on this one. I guess that's how you learn.
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Not really. Not by a long shot actually. Over $1000 for a MM which has no historical or collector value. $4000+ for fake/misrepresented rifles. But you're very right about the learning part. It will come soon enough, especially if you follow along here and search through the references. Of course the books written by Mike and Bruce are amazing and THE authoritative source.
 
Don't beat yourself up over it. You got a matching, shootable k98 for $600. Finish is bad but may be a candidate for a good reblue as the finish on it is no longer original anyway and it's prone to rust unprotected.
 
mowzerluvr said:
Don't beat yourself up over it. You got a matching, shootable k98 for $600. Finish is bad but may be a candidate for a good reblue as the finish on it is no longer original anyway and it's prone to rust unprotected.
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Thanks Mowzerluvr.

What is the preferred method of bluing for this rifle, in this condition? Just cold blue?
 
werra said:
Thanks Mowzerluvr.

What is the preferred method of bluing for this rifle, in this condition? Just cold blue?
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Unsure the cost of a hot blue dip but I'd check that out myself. Refinish, if even just hearing the word is a no-no in the collector circle but for the decent price you paid for a matching rifle, the finish is ruined and non original anyway. It will all match in color once done. It will always have a "non original" finish anyway, once reblued in the original way, it will look a lot better at the range shooting it. I would have no reservations doing it.
 
heavy_mech said:
Not really. Not by a long shot actually. Over $1000 for a MM which has no historical or collector value. $4000+ for fake/misrepresented rifles. But you're very right about the learning part. It will come soon enough, especially if you follow along here and search through the references. Of course the books written by Mike and Bruce are amazing and THE authoritative source.
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I will look into those books - thanks! I am learning by the hour on this site too!
 
People are paying $600 for RC and even more for Mitchell's. Yeah finish may have been messed up but it is still matching. Congrats.


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mowzerluvr said:
Unsure the cost of a hot blue dip but I'd check that out myself. Refinish, if even just hearing the word is a no-no in the collector circle but for the decent price you paid for a matching rifle, the finish is ruined and non original anyway. It will all match in color once done. It will always have a "non original" finish anyway, once reblued in the original way, it will look a lot better at the range shooting it. I would have no reservations doing it.
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I paid 100 I think for a hot dip reblue of my RC when I rebarreled it. I could have done it myself but I only have a tank for small parts. I've recently done some experiments with rust bluing, it's pretty labor intensive and takes a lot of time and patience, but you CAN do it yourself with fairly cheap equipment and a bottle of rust blue solution.

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Thanks for all the replies!! I guess it was not such a bad deal after all. I have decided to reblue it.

What if anything can be done about the pitting on the bolt. It is the worst part. Can it be sanded down at all?
 
werra said:
Thanks for all the replies!! I guess it was not such a bad deal after all. I have decided to reblue it.

What if anything can be done about the pitting on the bolt. It is the worst part. Can it be sanded down at all?
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I'd draw the line at re-blue and leave it at that. Any grinding or sanding would be over the top. Pitting won't hurt its functionality.
 
Bob in OHIO said:
option c, would be to leave as is... sell to recover your cost, and upgrade to better condition example
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I did consider this option. For now, I intend to keep it. When I have the funds, I hope to add a nicer rifle to the collection.

Now I just need to find the correct stamped byf floorplate so I can shoot it. The original is damaged and won't stay put.
 
Leave it alone. I rust blue my east German ak variant s. I would never rust blue a defaced collectable to make it "look" original or even close

Faking is faking, reproduction anything is attempt to decieve

Nice shooter
 
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