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1943 ar matching sporter - restoration UPDATE

C

cptxaggie

Member
Good morning, new member here. I recently purchased a 1943 ar matching serial numbers rifle that has been sporterized. The rifle looks to be in excellent condition except for the stock. The stock has been sporterized, all cavities in the stock have been filled (sling and firing pin extractor). Also, the stock has been glued to repair a crack and several damaged places on the surface has been filled with wood filler. On top of that the stock has been crudely shellacked. The stock is the original with a matching serial number.

Other issues:
1. missing sight hood
2. missing barrel bands, cleaning rod and other hardware associated with a sporterized rifle

I would like to "restore" this rifle to somewhat original factory like condition - replace the stock, top handguard and remaining missing pieces. This rifle would be for my personal enjoyment and shooting pleasure, not for re-sale.

Questions, with the caveat: all of the following would include keeping the original matching stock with the rifle If I were to ever sell the rifle.
1. Would restoring the rifle with a new, modern made replacement stock be an acceptable solution for value and historical purposes?
2. Would having the above new stock stamped with a matching serial number only put this rifle in a "turd" category?
3. Would I be better off for value and historical purposes to be looking for a period stock and have mis-matched serial numbers?

Thanks,

CP
 
Please post pictures.

First and most importantly, it will never be “matching” again. Without the numbered barrel bands and hand guard, that concern left long ago when the decision was made to sport it. My big question, has the lip on the front of the rear sight base been ground away? If so, that will require replacement/repair meaning more costs.

Having said that, don’t worry about numbers. Find a correct stock and hand guard. Be prepared to pay big money for it.

Find yourself a correct style set of barrel bands, easy enough.

Find a cleaning rod and sight hood last.

Enjoy it at the range/in the field.
 
Great info, thanks. I will do that!

Yes, the lip remains to fit the top handguard to.

One other issue that I am sure someone will point out in the pics is the missing bolt stop /ejector. I have removed it to remove and clean the bolt. I am not able to remove the bolt by the traditional way of using this release in place. The bolt stop has to be removed to remove the bolt. Is this common? Should I file the bolt stop to clear it for the removal of the bolt maybe a 1.0 mm should do it?

Also, I bought some modernish Czech made Sellier & Bellot 8x57 JR round nose 196 grain cartridges that dont seem to feed correctly from the magazine. They get stuck with the bolt half closed. I have some 1940 Greek milsurp ammo on the way in case the ammo is the problem. Is there anything on the rifle I should check? Everything is clean and lightly lubed. 20230815_123834.jpg20230815_121545.jpg20230815_121605.jpg20230815_121615.jpg20230815_121648.jpg20230815_121702.jpg20230815_121721.jpg20230815_121752.jpg20230815_121807.jpg
 

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Not to insult your intelligence, but you realize that it swings way out to allow the bolt to be removed, right?
 
Yes, I understand that it swings out, but not far enough to release the bolt. Like I said it only lacks 1mm to clear the bolt lug. I can see on the release where the bolt is hitting when swung out.
 
cptxaggie said:
Yes, I understand that it swings out, but not far enough to release the bolt. Like I said it only lacks 1mm to clear the bolt lug. I can see on the release where the bolt is hitting when swung out.
Click to expand...
Interesting. I wonder if something is impeding it from swinging out far enough? Like I said it wasn't meant to be an insult, merely trying to figure out what's going on.
 
Yep, no insult taken. I have removed, inspected and cleaned the release assembly. There are no obvious bent or broken parts.

I finally got the bolt to release correctly by pulling really hard on the bolt stop lever. I can do it reliably now. The rifle looks to have been unused & unloved for a long time, maybe broke loose some restriction. Thanks.
 
cptxaggie said:
Yep, no insult taken. I have removed, inspected and cleaned the release assembly. There are no obvious bent or broken parts.

I finally got the bolt to release correctly by pulling really hard on the bolt stop lever. I can do it reliably now. The rifle looks to have been unused & unloved for a long time, maybe broke loose some restriction. Thanks.
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Kind of sounds like that. Glad you got it working correctly and reliably. Regarding 'springs' like that, I've seen them bent (whether intentional or not) and them giving more resistance than a stock unit would. This more seems like maybe just gunk somewhat binding it up.
 
Hello CP

Welcome to the forum.

Glad that you have got your bolt stop working properly.

On your ammunition question, I use S&B 196gr and it performs well and feeds with no problems. Single load, topping off and stripper clips. It’s one of only a couple of brands of 8x57 available in the UK (that I have found anyway).

However, I use the spitzer bullets and not round nose version. I think that the K98k was designed for spitzer bullets and not round nose. I could be wrong, and if I am then someone who knows far than I do will be along shortly to put me right I’m sure.

It may be worth triple checking that you definitely have the JS/IS and not JRS or JR as obviously rimmed or semi-rimmed are no good for the K98k and there are other bullet differences also.

All the best

AG
 
Worth watching out for corrosive primers if you have some surplus ammunition en route also. Lots of info on the forum about it. Apologies if you’re already well aware of that.

AG
 
Amateur_Gardener said:
Hello CP

Welcome to the forum.

Glad that you have got your bolt stop working properly.

On your ammunition question, I use S&B 196gr and it performs well and feeds with no problems. Single load, topping off and stripper clips. It’s one of only a couple of brands of 8x57 available in the UK (that I have found anyway).

However, I use the spitzer bullets and not round nose version. I think that the K98k was designed for spitzer bullets and not round nose. I could be wrong, and if I am then someone who knows far than I do will be along shortly to put me right I’m sure.

It may be worth triple checking that you definitely have the JS/IS and not JRS or JR as obviously rimmed or semi-rimmed are no good for the K98k and there are other bullet differences also.

All the best

AG
Click to expand...
I have and have used both flavors of PPU. They have a 196gr and a 198gr. One is FMJ and the other is SP. Fired (mostly) from a byf43 RC.
 
Amateur_Gardener said:
I have just noticed that the OP stated that he has JR not JS. Possibly that is the issue?
Click to expand...
I think this a labeling issue. Probably the government requires them to label them differently? I've never had, fired or heard of any modern PPY being problematic in any functional Mauser.
 
if the OP’s “problem ammo” is indeed 8x57 JRS, it is rimmed AND the cartridge tapers dramatically (think win 30-30) & it will not chamber. I accidentally bought a 5round box at a show, thinking it was 8x57 JS/IS. (cheap lesson @ $3 )
8x57JRS is correct for the M95 rifles, but not a model 98.

it seems that every auction I look at on gunbonker has our favorite rifle listed incorrectly as cal “8x57 JRS” .
I’m pretty sure it started as a cut n paste error, & has gone rampant.

I shoot PPU ammo, the brass reloads well, reasonably priced when available, I’ve used both their fmj & soft pt, I buy what’s available. I don’t think it’s as accurate as some others, but for punching holes @ 100 yds, does it matter? I’ve found bullets they use to be .0005-.001” undersize, so some may start wobbling in the barrel. I can’t bring myself to pay $2/round for “match grade” ammunition. ( maybe for competition, or once-in-a-lifetime hunt at long ranges) I’ve found some ww2 corrosive & steel cased German ammo to be very accurate, in spite of being 80+ years old.

for the stock:
if I wanted to hunt with it, I’d leave it be. if I wanted to “restore” it, I’d BOLO a correct period stock, but be patient. An available but incorrect period stock may get you something that ‘looks right’ to the average person. You might (also requiring patience) try ordering a replica from Fox stocks, but the queue is long (2 years) & may not be able to deliver if Ukrainian situation gets worse. (he’s in Poland, but there’s spill-over chaos). It all depends on your goals. Unfortunately, the genie is out of the bottle, & you’ll not be able to restore its value as “all-matching”. Do what brings you pleasure & satisfaction.
just my $.02
 
re: the funky bolt stop, while you've got it off the gun do yourself a favor and plunk it in a jar of something like PB Blaster overnight, then hose it out with brake cleaner, then oil it really well again. I have cleaned some GROSS crud out of those and old oil, grease, dirt, soot, and other debris can gum them up really well. I could absolutely see it not opening up enough due to a booger of sand and 50+ year old grease crammed in there.
 
I’ve even found drillings inside the bolt stop housing, limiting range of motion. these were magnetic, but I don’t believe they were from time of manufacture (based on appearance) but fell in there sometime later. (& no, the rifle wasn’t D&T’d)
I’d drop it into my “soak” jar or Hoppe’s #9, leave it a week or so, swishing it around perhaps daily. Works pretty well to get crud out of spaces you can’t reach into.
 
Restoration Update: I have completed a restoration of this rifle. Not perfectly correct as I would like, but it looks good. I found a nice earlier stock (37-40) at a gun show that cleaned up really well and fit perfectly. If I happen to see a period and factory correct stock, I will consider replacing it. Here are a few pics of the rifle now.

R5.jpgR1.jpgR2.jpgR3.jpgR4.jpg

Thanks for all the advice!
 
What's going on with the handguard and rear band? The band spring looks like it's installed backwards too.
 
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