1911 Spandau sn. 5688a… bad bolt?

hale1940

Canadian Fabio
Hey there,

This 1911 Spandau Gewehr 98 is for sale up North. Unfortunately I suspect the bolt numbering is fake, but always good to get second opinions. Plus, its good to keep tabs on the ever growing subject of Imperial hump jobs.
 

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The fonts are also different. Look in particular at how the 5 is structured, especially around the beginning of the broad curve after the downstroke. The "a" on the bolt is faint at the top in a way that makes me suspect there was a number above it that was deleted. It's bad enough at first I thought it was a "u".

Maybe someone will come in and say that's a armorer bolt or something, but it's dodgy enough to me that I'd pass unless I knew exactly what I was looking at to the point that I was confident in it, and don't so I'm not.
 
The fonts are also different. Look in particular at how the 5 is structured, especially around the beginning of the broad curve after the downstroke. The "a" on the bolt is faint at the top in a way that makes me suspect there was a number above it that was deleted. It's bad enough at first I thought it was a "u".

Maybe someone will come in and say that's a armorer bolt or something, but it's dodgy enough to me that I'd pass unless I knew exactly what I was looking at to the point that I was confident in it, and don't so I'm not.

The font almost has this etched look to it. Which is something I’ve seen quite a number of times on faked K98k’s. I’m not sure if they are infact being hand done… or if someone is just using very low quality dies.

Also, I totally agree with everyone that the layering of the serial and suffix is totally off. And, if you look closely you can still see the ghosts of the bolt’s original serial number.
 

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The font almost has this etched look to it. Which is something I’ve seen quite a number of times on faked K98k’s. I’m not sure if they are infact being hand done… or if someone is just using very low quality dies.
I think it's just bad dies. If you look at the rightmost 8 in your pic you can see what looks like a ring of displaced material surrounding it.
 
Buy it for bolt m/m price and that would be ok.

Eh, I personally disagree. I can't stand faked numbers in my collection, so I'd also be looking for a bolt to swap out and make it an honest m/m, so you have to factor in that cost.

And it's not even like you can flip the old bolt to recoup some of that cost, at least not for what an unhumped bolt body is worth.
 
Far from an expert, but I really don’t like the bolt. SN was stamped on top of the suffix; font looks off especially that “5”; and the bolt shroud looked renumbered too
 
Eh, I personally disagree. I can't stand faked numbers in my collection, so I'd also be looking for a bolt to swap out and make it an honest m/m, so you have to factor in that cost.

And it's not even like you can flip the old bolt to recoup some of that cost, at least not for what an unhumped bolt body is worth.
I agree. I phrased it poorly. I had major surgery Monday and I'm still out of half the time. o_O

I would toss in a good bolt and strip the bad one for parts if you get it cheap enough.
 
Thanks for sharing an example of a faked Imperial Gewehr 98. It's my first time seeing one. Sad to see it given the far lower survival rates of these, but thankfully, this is the place to sort out fakes from legit armorer parts with all the knowledge this forum and its members have.
 
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Bolt is 100% bad.

Assuming it has no other issues and you can get it for the price of a bolt m/m, I would entertain buying it. A 1911 Spandau is a rare gun.
 
Around 06 or 07 I bought a 15 MO that someone had humped. However it was pretty bad and would only fool a guy who had no idea what he was looking at.
 
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SIGH***** 😒 they just can't quit faking stuff can they....hopefully it's at a good price tho and the rest of it is original.
 
Hello. This thread was brought to my attention and this is my rifle for sale so I would like to clarify couple of things.
- this rifle advertised and priced as partially matching, because she has m/m rear leaf, action screw and unnumbered rod
- I am far away from being expert on Mausers, and thus can't claim originality or fakery of bolt handle serial number. As I always like to learn - to everyone claiming this is fake - please explain real life scenario how one could come into possession of the rifle with bolt with only handle being mismatched part and all other parts are matching and having same font? Did the faker renumber bolt sleeve to? How did he get matching dies for "8"? Was complete bolt renumbered? Do you see traces of other bolt components renumbered?

I uploaded full resolution pictures here - https://postimg.cc/gallery/9zH0tD4
Below is just one resized sample illustrating matching font on sleeve and handle.
 

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The fonts are also different. Look in particular at how the 5 is structured, especially around the beginning of the broad curve after the downstroke.
Are you saying that always exactly same dies were used on receiver/barrel and on smaller parts? Do I understand you correctly?
 
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Are you saying that always exactly same dies were used on receiver/barrel and on smaller parts? Do I understand you correctly?
No, but they all tended to be in the same font, for lack of a better term, and different factories ended up with slightly different but internally consistent looks to their numbers. There's absolutely a Mauser font, for example, and if you spend enough time looking at these you'll start to get a feel for it.

Here are two examples that illustrate a bit of what I'm talking about. The first is an 1917 WMO Gew98. Some of those numbers are slightly different sizes, so they'd use different dies, and even with the ones that are the same size if nothing else you're not going to have one dude walking around with a single set of punches numbering every rifle in the factory.


Pay attention to how the #2 is shaped on that rifle.

Now here is a 1916 JP Sauer gun . Same basic idea, look at how the numbers all have the same basic shape. Look at the 3's in particular, that's another number that frequently has subtly different shapes. Now compare the 2's in this gun to the 2's in the WMO above. See how the curve at the top of the WMO #2 is a bit different, and the curved bit up top is a slightly different size and with a slightly different angle than the Sauer? That's what I'm talking about.


The numbers that this shows up the most on are anything with a big curve or a prominent cross piece. So 2, 3, 4, and 5 are all really good for spotting these differences. 3 and 2 especially. You'll also sometimes get differences in the size of circular bits relative to the rest of the number, so 6, 8, and 9.

edit: the fonts also change over time. The very early WMO fonts are a lot more "script" like, for lack of a better term. Here's an 1899 WMO and the font is significantly different form the 1917 linked above. It's not a numbers matching gun but pay attention to the parts that do match, and again look at the #2 in particular in comparison to the later WMO above.


It's one of those things where if you look at enough guns you get a feel for it and how it changes over time. If you think this is bad, the people who do WW2 rifles have been able to spot stuff like when a particular proof die at Mauser was broken in, I believe, late 1944.
 
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