G43- bolt lug repair

M

mgrs

Member
(Referred here from another forum where this did not get much traffic)

I have a G43 with a cracked 'flapper' lug. It came from someone's collection who never disassembled it or did much with it. When I first took the bolt apart, the left lug fell out in two pieces. The shape of the flapper lug held it in until the firing pin carrier was removed. While the barrel, receiver, and stock match, the bolt carrier, housing, and bolt are numbered to a different rifle. Perhaps it is possible this caused uneven lug engagement, causing one to crack.

The rifle had some light corrosion, but otherwise shows none of the typical damage they get from being fired without tuning. The bore has some pitted spots, but is otherwise quite strong and shows very well in a 'bullet test.' Since is probably has little collector value due to the stock varnish and initials scratched into the scope rail. I'd like to turn it into a shooter with the replacement gas parts and a ZF4.

It seems that apfeltor is a commonly recommended shop for these.... curious about feedback.

Are there any alternatives that know these guns well? I suppose I could also buy a new lug set and have someone else fit them to the gun.

It cleaned up decently, at least. The stock is unfortunately varnished, but still has the marks visible underneath and should be clean-able.

IMG_1360.jpg

Thanks
 
mgrs said:
(Referred here from another forum where this did not get much traffic)

I have a G43 with a cracked 'flapper' lug. It came from someone's collection who never disassembled it or did much with it. When I first took the bolt apart, the left lug fell out in two pieces. The shape of the flapper lug held it in until the firing pin carrier was removed. While the barrel, receiver, and stock match, the bolt carrier, housing, and bolt are numbered to a different rifle. Perhaps it is possible this caused uneven lug engagement, causing one to crack.

The rifle had some light corrosion, but otherwise shows none of the typical damage they get from being fired without tuning. The bore has some pitted spots, but is otherwise quite strong and shows very well in a 'bullet test.' Since is probably has little collector value due to the stock varnish and initials scratched into the scope rail. I'd like to turn it into a shooter with the replacement gas parts and a ZF4.

It seems that apfeltor is a commonly recommended shop for these.... curious about feedback.

Are there any alternatives that know these guns well? I suppose I could also buy a new lug set and have someone else fit them to the gun.

It cleaned up decently, at least. The stock is unfortunately varnished, but still has the marks visible underneath and should be clean-able.

View attachment 247424

Thanks
Click to expand...

New reproduction ones are available on ebay from a Dutch company https://www.ebay.ca/usr/frontlinemilitaria?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
 
Welder or gunsmith could do it but they would need to use anneal heat treating in order to withstand the pressures. You can find original non-matching locking flaps, make sure you purchase the right one, as one has a cut out dimple and one does not. There are also the Dutch repro's, but I wonder if they have been heat treated?
 
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agentcq said:
Welder or gunsmith good do it but would need to use anneal heat treating in order to withstand the pressures. You can find original non-matching locking flaps, make sure you purchase the right one, as one has a cut out dimple and one does not. There are also the Dutch repro's, but I wonder if they have been heat treated?
Click to expand...

These are a complete set,left and right,made from 4140 heat treated 52 HRC steel according to their website.
I have bought a shooters kit and a spring set from them years ago,very good quality stuff.
 
Do not weld a locking lug. Why take a chance on it when you have other ones out there in good shape. I wouldnt trust a welded locking lug.
 
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Thanks for the link.

Seems like a good idea to purchase the new reproduction set to shoot, which would probably have to be fitted.

I was able to speak to apfeltor, who recommended re-welding the flap. It is broken where it tapers down to the tail that serves to hold it in the bolt, as opposed to the locking location. The bolt group can be reassembled and function check with the broken lug; it just falls out when removed from the receiver.

The offending lug

IMG_1398.jpg
 
mgrs said:
Thanks for the link.

Seems like a good idea to purchase the new reproduction set to shoot, which would probably have to be fitted.

I was able to speak to apfeltor, who recommended re-welding the flap. It is broken where it tapers down to the tail that serves to hold it in the bolt, as opposed to the locking location. The bolt group can be reassembled and function check with the broken lug; it just falls out when removed from the receiver.

The offending lug

View attachment 247584
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting the photo. I agree that with the break in that area, it would be ok to weld it up. I would not trust a weld further up on the lug. The stress point is when it is in chamber on the top area. The rear is more of a pivot point. If it were me, I would rather use another original or the reproductions to shoot as more of peace of mind.
 
Are you guys telling me that if the weld breaks again it cannot become immediately dangerous?
 
swjXE said:
Are you guys telling me that if the weld breaks again it cannot become immediately dangerous?
Click to expand...

If the repair is good in that area there is less of a chance of becoming catastrophic. The firing pin carrier is holding the lug in place in battery near the top and not at the pivot. If it were to break again the top would still be in the locking position with the pressure and position of the firing pin carrier in the forward position. If it were to somehow break at the top, the second locking lug would still be locked in position. I personally would rather replace it with another original or use a set of the newly manufactured ones. I would never in my life weld a lug that was broken at the top. The pivot point isn't as critical. With that said, I would like to know why it broke at that point. Was it bad heat treating, abuse, ect, ect.....
 
To me it comes down to is the rifle a shooter or collector? If the lug is matching, I would have it repaired but treated properly. You can always have a second set for shooting and include it with the rifle if you ever sell. I know lots of people who shoot use gas/spring kits and even spare locking flap kits as these and the top cover are the parts that can be damaged or may cause damage.
 
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agentcq said:
To me it comes down to is the rifle a shooter or collector? If the lug is matching, I would have it repaired but treated properly. You can always have a second set for shooting and include it with the rifle if you ever sell. I know lots of people who shoot use gas/spring kits and even spare locking flap kits as these are the top cover are the parts that can be damaged or may cause damage.
Click to expand...

This one is definitely a shooter. Initials scratched on scope rail, non-matching bolt and carrier group, varnished stock, etc.

I did find one of these to put on it:

IMG_1363.jpg
 
If a MM bolt, just replace the locking flaps. Repro would be cheaper but eventually pick up a set of originals.
 
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