Sticky Scope Rail / Mount

B

BigJoeK

Member
Next "sticky" topic... my sticky scope rail.

It's a reproduction that needs a huge amount of persuasion to fully slide forward. Once it's on, it won't come off without the assistance of a large rubber mallet.
This is obviously not ideal.

The first half of the ride forward is stiff, but easily done by hand. Then it stops as metal hits metal. My guess is the mount is not perfect and may need some filing. Its a repro so not too concerned about that.

Any suggestions?
 
BigJoeK said:
Next "sticky" topic... my sticky scope rail.

It's a reproduction that needs a huge amount of persuasion to fully slide forward. Once it's on, it won't come off without the assistance of a large rubber mallet.
This is obviously not ideal.

The first half of the ride forward is stiff, but easily done by hand. Then it stops as metal hits metal. My guess is the mount is not perfect and may need some filing. Its a repro so not too concerned about that.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Rather than filing I took mine apart(I have two of them),removed lever and spindle and with a couple of cold chisels opened up the track until it slid on the rail with ease.
When assembling put the lever back on the spindle in such a way that when turning it to "fest" that it will not clamp too tight.
 
Finally

Figured I should close this post finally.

I eventually got tired of not getting the mount on with filing and used a Dremel to grind the slot. i put calipers on the front and back openings on the mount slot and could tell the forward opening was smaller than rear by a few .001's. Once i opened that up some, as well as the key/pocket area behind it, I was able to get the mount on.

Didnt like breaking out the crude implements but sometimes you have to call in Bubba to do his magic!

Now on to "how to zero your repro optic when you reach the max on windage adjustment."
 
For adjustments, you can remove the stamped cover and then unscrew the small screws to reveal the drum adjustment underneath. You can then re-set the drum like you would on a modern scope once you have your zero or have run out of adjustments. Then you just put the drum cover and stamped cover back on. Be careful with the small screws, they are easy to lose. The old G43 Forum had instructions. I think there are PU Scope example on the internet and the process would be similar.


The other option is shims.
 
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