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restoration Help

JUMANJI

Member
Hi there. let me first say thanks for your input. I'm scrolling thru this forum in hopes to find information and the correct way to restore this rifle . It has matching numbers on the receiver , bolt and bottom plate.
I'm needing a lot as its been "sporterized". How do i go about finding correct parts ? Any Idea of the cost its gonna be to make correct ? Value of it corrected as to the value now? I will never sell it, but more curious.
Anyhow any help with located correct parts and what and where to look would be super helpful. thank you for your time
 

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If the rear sight base is not ground off, then you are off to a start.
You need a stock assembly, handguard, front and rear bands and bandspring.

Tough order for a 'dot 1944' coded rifle I assume.

Not going to be cheap to get it right. Of course the rifle will always be a restored sporter.
Your rifle should have originally had serialized stock, handguard, and both bands.

Good luck!
 
If the rear sight base is not ground off, then you are off to a start.
You need a stock assembly, handguard, front and rear bands and bandspring.

Tough order for a 'dot 1944' coded rifle I assume.

Not going to be cheap to get it right. Of course the rifle will always be a restored sporter.
Your rifle should have originally had serialized stock, handguard, and both bands.

Good luck!
the rear site it there . An adjustable slide type. It does have "Dot 44" stamped on the top. so I think you are correct in that .

So is the next best thing to find the parts Un serialized ?
Is fixing this stock worth it ?
im 99 percent sure the stock is original with the metal, although messed up.
Where is a good site to price parts out ?
 
if your stock had only had part of the fore end removed, and it is numbered to the rifle, it would be worth fixing. Unfortunately your rifle has had the buttstock severely thinned, no fixing that. Post a picture of the front end of your rear sight, to confirm that the handguard retaining ring is intact. If it is your rifle is worth restoring in my opinion.

Barrel bands and a handguard are going to run $25 - $40 each, and they will have nonmatching serial numbers. replacing the stock is the most costly, depending on how correct you want it to be.
 
If you try to buy all of the parts from one of the online parts places you are going to get a pile of parts with mixed up manufacturers/stampings/numbers/variants. I ended up having to go on eBay auctions and sourced everything I wanted piece by piece.
 
Hi there. let me first say thanks for your input. I'm scrolling thru this forum in hopes to find information and the correct way to restore this rifle . It has matching numbers on the receiver , bolt and bottom plate.
I'm needing a lot as its been "sporterized". How do i go about finding correct parts ? Any Idea of the cost its gonna be to make correct ? Value of it corrected as to the value now? I will never sell it, but more curious.
Anyhow any help with located correct parts and what and where to look would be super helpful. thank you for your time

Here is a reference rifle: https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7867[/B]

it will help you get the right looking parts.

Here is reference page with some details on how the parts should look as well: https://www.latewar.com/html/dot.htm
 
if your stock had only had part of the fore end removed, and it is numbered to the rifle, it would be worth fixing. Unfortunately your rifle has had the buttstock severely thinned, no fixing that. Post a picture of the front end of your rear sight, to confirm that the handguard retaining ring is intact. If it is your rifle is worth restoring in my opinion.

Barrel bands and a handguard are going to run $25 - $40 each, and they will have nonmatching serial numbers. replacing the stock is the most costly, depending on how correct you want it to be.
if your stock had only had part of the fore end removed, and it is numbered to the rifle, it would be worth fixing. Unfortunately your rifle has had the buttstock severely thinned, no fixing that. Post a picture of the front end of your rear sight, to confirm that the handguard retaining ring is intact. If it is your rifle is worth restoring in my opinion.

Barrel bands and a handguard are going to run $25 - $40 each, and they will have nonmatching serial numbers. replacing the stock is the most costly, depending on how correct you want it to be.
 

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let me know if this clarifies the handguard retaining ring . I'm not sure how they are suppose to look
Yes, it seems to be there, in blue. This lip holds the handguard's rear edge. Many rifles that were butchered like yours had this lip ground off. Yours still has it, which is good, and means it's easier to restore as the handguard will be held in place correctly.



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Yes, it seems to be there, in blue. This lip holds the handguard's rear edge. Many rifles that were butchered like yours had this lip ground off. Yours still has it, which is good, and means it's easier to restore as the handguard will be held in place correctly.



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awesome. thank you. seems like i need a new stock as this one has been "thinned ". looking for a good vendor now. any suggestions would be great. its dot 44 27xx z #. ugh this is very complicated lol
 
awesome. thank you. seems like i need a new stock as this one has been "thinned ". looking for a good vendor now. any suggestions would be great. its dot 44 27xx z #. ugh this is very complicated lol

The trader forum here is probably the best source for all the needed parts.
 
Look in thr Trader section of this forum. Dave Davis has a wide variety of parts for sale. I think I also saw a thread of his where he had an assortment of stocks for sale.
He might be your one- stop-shop. He’ knowledgeable.
 
Look in thr Trader section of this forum. Dave Davis has a wide variety of parts for sale. I think I also saw a thread of his where he had an assortment of stocks for sale.
He might be your one- stop-shop. He’ knowledgeable.
perfect. thank you
 
I have a set of extra "dot" bands ... but just know any parts you purchase may need to be "hand fitted". That is, let's say you locate a stock set (w/ matched hand guard). Any set of bands you locate may or may not slide nicely into place. Buying a stock and HG from two sources may also present a problem where the fit between the stock & HG is slightly "off".
 
Are you trying to restore the rifle to be correct as a DOT 44, or simply complete as a K98k?

If the former, you're going to spend more than you will get out of it . It will always be a stock/band mismatch, and the premium added by having the "correct" DOT 44 stock likely isn't going to be worth the effort you put in to finding one. If someone happens along with a spare that they're willing to let go of cheap, by all means, but that's something you could be hunting a long time for.

If you just want it correct for how it would have looked then that is much simpler. Get the proper type of stock, get some basically correct bands, and don't worry too much about what manufacturer they came from. Much simpler to source, likely cheaper, end value is about the same as one with all DOT parts.

If you want to go cheap and just have something that is representative of a military-pattern K98k, then just grab whatever parts you can find that are cheap. This will be fairly easy and relatively inexpensive as far as these things go.

In your shoes I'd probably go for the middle road.
 
Are you trying to restore the rifle to be correct as a DOT 44, or simply complete as a K98k?

If the former, you're going to spend more than you will get out of it . It will always be a stock/band mismatch, and the premium added by having the "correct" DOT 44 stock likely isn't going to be worth the effort you put in to finding one. If someone happens along with a spare that they're willing to let go of cheap, by all means, but that's something you could be hunting a long time for.

If you just want it correct for how it would have looked then that is much simpler. Get the proper type of stock, get some basically correct bands, and don't worry too much about what manufacturer they came from. Much simpler to source, likely cheaper, end value is about the same as one with all DOT parts.

If you want to go cheap and just have something that is representative of a military-pattern K98k, then just grab whatever parts you can find that are cheap. This will be fairly easy and relatively inexpensive as far as these things go.

In your shoes I'd probably go for the middle road.
Thank you. Im gonna lean in to your advice and go that direction .
 
Thank you. Im gonna lean in to your advice and go that direction .
That's probably pretty sound advice, UNLESS as was mentioned a factory specific one falls to you. Since the days of $200-300 complete stock and matching metal days are over it's really easy to get way upside down in these restorations. That's especially true for very commonly seen year/date codes.
 

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