dot 44 #7907 ag block

[Jdt]

This rifle was grabbed off of GB initially as a trade rifle for my DOU 44 but it's made it's way back to me so now it resides in my collection, cost me $2350 in a private sale. There is some cross bolt set back so I'm abit hesitant to shoot this one much more until I shim the cross bolt forward unless you guys have some recommendation for fixing that. Front action screw is not as tight as it could (due to late style capture screw not fitting if tightened all the way) be so that may be why this rifle has some setback in the cross bolt. Aside from those issues this rifle is matching but front sight is also loose so I need some guidance from you guys on how to fix that because I can move the front sight with just my fingers. Need to get a cleaning rod and front sight hood for this example as well.

Barrel band spring is e/135 marked.

 

[Jdt]

Handguard is marked "dot" as well as the stock on the keel side near butt plate. Inbetween the 7&9 stock serial number in the barrel channel of the stock is a "e/63" marking and most likely a WaA63 due to the 63 being curved abit, I circled that to help it be more easy to see somewhat l.

 

[Jdt]

Lovely piece of red glue laminate. If anyone has ideas on how to tighten up the front sight base I'm all ears

 

[jimdvan]

There's a couple of ways to tighten the sight.
1-if you have some very thin shim stock, like from a feeler guage, cut a small rectangular piece and slip it between the sight and base.
2-red or blue Loctite works well.
3-take a very sharp center point punch and punch 4 or 5 little punch marks on the underside of the sight. That will raise just enough metal to create friction tapping it in.
4-remove the sight and very gently tap the front and rear of the sight base where it overlaps the channel for the sight. I'd do that one as a last resort since it will be more obvious.

 

[Jdt]

There's a couple of ways to tighten the sight.
1-if you have some very thin shim stock, like from a feeler guage, cut a small rectangular piece and slip it between the sight and base.
2-red or blue Loctite works well.
3-take a very sharp center point punch and punch 4 or 5 little punch marks on the underside of the sight. That will raise just enough metal to create friction tapping it in.
4-remove the sight and very gently tap the front and rear of the sight base where it overlaps the channel for the sight. I'd do that one as a last resort since it will be more obvious.

I think someone tried that already and sorta failed because the top edges of the front sight base are a bit shiny/look messed with. I think I'll try a shim first and if that doesn't work then I'll try red, then blue loctight.

 

[Muncher 1953]

I think someone tried that already and sorta failed because the top edges of the front sight base are a bit shiny/look messed with. I think I'll try a shim first and if that doesn't work then I'll try red, then blue loctight.

red loctite is higher strength, if that doesn’t work, blue won’t. there are what they call ‘retaining compounds’, made to essentially glue a bearing, bushing or gear to a worn shaft or housing, that are higher strength than red loctite.

 

[jimdvan]

red loctite is higher strength, if that doesn’t work, blue won’t. there are what they call ‘retaining compounds’, made to essentially glue a bearing, bushing or gear to a worn shaft or housing, that are higher strength than red loctite.

Green Loctite.

 

[Jdt]

red loctite is higher strength, if that doesn’t work, blue won’t. there are what they call ‘retaining compounds’, made to essentially glue a bearing, bushing or gear to a worn shaft or housing, that are higher strength than red loctite.

Doesn't it go green, blue and then red on the strength level?

 

[jimdvan]

Green is very high sheer strength. It is used to secure bearings, sleeves, etc.

 

[Jdt]

Green is very high sheer strength. It is used to secure bearings, sleeves, etc.

Interesting alrighty then!