Closet finds and rust-what do we collectors do?

Tiger 2 Tank

Tiger 2 Tank

Senior Member
Okay, so IF you are lucky to find a "closet find" rifle, totally correct and super un-touched wood, etc.; EXCEPT for that pesky active thick rust in an area that can't readily be seen. Or, let's say it's active rust in an area you can see readily. What do we as collectors do? Try to clean it or leave it alone? Cleaning it by means of oil, rag and brass brush only-not being aggressive to where it would be damaging and evident that aggressive cleaning was done. Only talking about metal that's "in the white" or blued metal, not phosphate surfaces. My question is, do we leave it be to suffer metal cancer (rust consequences) or try to attack it to save the metal from further rusting consequences?

What's strange is that in the pistol world, it is accepted to attack the rust at will, of course only going so far as to attack it but not to the point that it would damage the metal, etc. In the rifle world, it seems not so accepted. Maybe I am seeing this wrong?

Just curious on what would be done by our collectors here. Thanks in advance.
 
Although I have not tried it, I hear 0000 steel wool with plenty of oil as a lubricant works great. The wool takes the rust off and the oil "washes" it away. Without the oil, the rust being dragged across the gun is what cause scratches, not the steel wool.
 
I have personally adopted the stance of: leave everything as is. Coat in CLP and RIG if needed. It pains me to turn screws or take anything down anymore. I keep everything in an extremely temperature and humidity controlled environment. I have knocked some big clumps of rust off with a penny or bronze wool.

Id much rather have a closet rifle than a cleaned rifle.
 
If you decide to remove the rust with oil and a wool, use Bronze wool which can be bought on line or from Brownells.
 
ugafx4 said:
I have personally adopted the stance of: leave everything as is. Coat in CLP and RIG if needed. It pains me to turn screws or take anything down anymore. I keep everything in an extremely temperature and humidity controlled environment. I have knocked some big clumps of rust off with a penny or bronze wool.

Id much rather have a closet rifle than a cleaned rifle.
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Yeah, it seems kind of "do it" and then "don't do it". So, I don't know. Maybe the answer is somewhere in the middle, or "depends on the circumstances" as in if you don't have to turn or take anything down, but thick rust is present on the "outside", maybe attack it gently as you were saying with "a penny or bronze wool" and absolutely not aggressively? It just seems that the active and thicker rust needs to be stopped or the rifle will suffer the consequences later. It would be a tough decision that's for sure but trying to gauge where collectors are at on this topic.
 
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Copper is fine. Bronze is just copper and tin. It's easier to find bronze wool locally. I hear marine stores are great places to look.
 
use of steel wool????????? people still recommend that, steel wool in any gauge removes bluing,

there is always remnants of bluing present when covered in rust

before I used bronze wool, I try coarse cloth like a old blue jean or canvas soaked in oil or a old tooth brush, then bronze wool and oil will bring that out without removing the bluing,,

never use steel wool or a wire wheel of any kind
 
Zeppelin5000 said:
Although I have not tried it, I hear 0000 steel wool with plenty of oil as a lubricant works great. The wool takes the rust off and the oil "washes" it away. Without the oil, the rust being dragged across the gun is what cause scratches, not the steel wool.
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NO STEEL WOOL!!!!

Even bronze wool mixed with oil will act as a polishing compound. I use some dry bronze wool and blow or wipe away the dust. Then oil. And this is only on active rust. It’ll never be perfect again, a little honest rust is better then polished metal.
 
CanadianAR said:
NO STEEL WOOL!!!!

Even bronze wool mixed with oil will act as a polishing compound. I use some dry bronze wool and blow or wipe away the dust. Then oil. And this is only on active rust. It’ll never be perfect again, a little honest rust is better then polished metal.
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Got it ;-) Very good topic to post about here! I haven't had to do anything for rust (yet...), but it's definitely a good thing to discuss and have some knowledge on!
 
I've cleaned many a rifle using a Kroil soak for days, washing in super hot dish soap, then rinsing with boiling water, then immediately resoak in Kroil. When its oiled up, use bronze wool, and maybe a pre-1982 penny with a flattened edge to scrape at heavy rust accumulation.

Heat is great, especially boiling hot water which will evaporate instantly. The hot metal will greedily accept whatever oil you apply to it immediately, and it will wick into every nook and cranny.

You can oil/wash/rinse/oil/scrape multiple times.

A final step is using Flitz polish, which won't harm bluing unless you're using power tools and a heavy hand (your toothpaste is more abrasive). Flitz is also good for detecting cold blue, as it will remove it with just a few swipes.
 
I know there are many old time collectors who want a rifle to be “closet fresh” with zero dusting or oiling or anything. To me that’s pointless, it is what it is whether it’s dusty or not. Still others oil the metal to halt rust. I think there’s a wide range of what people prefer to do.


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I think if it's pretty "thick rust" I would rather stop it than not. I guess I'm talking about rust that is a little further along than "surface rust" and it is untreated and "caked up" in an area. Maybe hit it with Hoppe's clear oil and a brass brush.

I would also "dust off" a rifle, but if there's no rust, that's about as far as I'd go. A little surface rust, I would go after it with Hoppe's clear oil wipe it down and leave it.
 
Bob in OHIO said:
Here are two examples I worked on...

http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?3702-Bustin-byf-rust&highlight=rust

http://www.k98kforum.com/showthread.php?23857-z-dot-1944-study&p=167556#post167556

Rust is not historical, it's neglect, imo
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I 100% agree. It's a shame people don't try and preserve the items. If there is thick active rust on it get it off of there as soon as possible and prevent it from doing any more damage. Do as little damage to the finish as possible of course but preserve the pieces for petes sake

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It takes rust years to do damage so don't get in a big hurry to get it all off.
I like to soak in CLP and once a week wipe down with shop rags.
Each week the rags come off with tons of rust on them, I just keep oiling and wiping as time ticks on.
Sooner or later the rags show less rust and the metal underneath appears.
Also a fan of plastic bristle brushes..
 
ugafx4 said:
I have personally adopted the stance of: leave everything as is. Coat in CLP and RIG if needed. It pains me to turn screws or take anything down anymore. I keep everything in an extremely temperature and humidity controlled environment. I have knocked some big clumps of rust off with a penny or bronze wool.

Id much rather have a closet rifle than a cleaned rifle.
Click to expand...

What ever happened with that 1940/660 "beach car find"?
 
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