Casing not ejecting properly 98K

I’m a bit at a loss. I cleaned the ejector and extractor, but most of the time my casings get stuck on the extractor. I tried a different bolt carrier from another 98K. Parts are all matching. Any help? ThanksIMG_0506.jpegIMG_0505.jpeg
 
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I’m a bit at a loss. I cleaned the ejector and extractor, but most of the time my casings get stuck on the extractor. I tried a different bolt carrier from another 98K. Parts are all matching. Any help? ThanksView attachment 438674View attachment 438675
Please tell me that's not turk 8mm...fun to shoot but its really hot stuff and if your action screws or cross bolt are not torqued right your begging for a stock crack.

As to your original question, I would suggest getting a new case ejector. My Posen Depot built BCD 41 suffered the same issue until I put a new case ejector in it. Not sure if it matters but the new case ejector came from a totally worn out Spanish civil war Polish K98.
 
Please tell me that's not turk 8mm...fun to shoot but its really hot stuff and if your action screws or cross bolt are not torqued right your begging for a stock crack.

As to your original question, I would suggest getting a new case ejector. My Posen Depot built BCD 41 suffered the same issue until I put a new case ejector in it. Not sure if it matters but the new case ejector came from a totally worn out Spanish civil war Polish K98.
Oh god… yes it is Turk 8mm, bought over 600 rounds of it. What’s the torque specs on those?
 
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Oh god… yes it is Turk 8mm, bought over 600 rounds of it. What’s the torque specs on those?
The actions screws are suppose to be 18 lbs of torque and the cross bolt need to be snug. You can search Google for K98K maintenance tools and it should pop up a link or two here or in the reference section. One big issue with surplus ammo is its surplus....now to clarify what I mean, one guy who bought a ton of that recent turk 8mm everyone was selling he got it for a MG 42. He had some issues and pulled all his ammo apart (500-600 rounds) and discovered 2 or 3 rounds were loaded with two bullets. You can also experience a wide variety of charge weights because 1 or 2 rounds from that same lot didn't have powder. This also applies to even M2 ball from WW2. I remember someone had gotten a 250 round can of linked M2 ball and found 3 or 4 rounds had no powder and he had a charge variation of up to 8 or 10 grains. Modern commercial ammo is gonna be better and I'd go with Hornady match or some PPU. If you handload ya can reuse the brass or sell it as once fired as well.
Turk 8mm is known for breaking machine guns, causing Hakim gas systems to fail and cracking rifle stocks. The brass being really brittle typically doesn't help either.
 
Extractor serves to pull the cartridge (or cartridge case) from the chamber (OK, there's also a controlled feeding thingy in the loading process)
As the bolt is pulled rearward, the extractor continues to pull the cartridge back until the base of the cartridge strikes the ejector.
The ejector is a non-moving part (it only moves when you pull ejector box (Kuhnhausen term away from the receiver to remove the bolt). Rearward movement of the bolt (pull the bolt back to open the action) brings the cartridge (base) into contact with the ejector. When the cartridge base strike strikes the ejector, it (cartridge) should be forced out from the receiver. Pretty simple so I'm wondering if the ejector is too short and the cartridge not striking the ejector.

I wonder if the ejector had been swapped for a shorter one.
 
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If that is an RC k98k, most were gummed up with thick cosmo. You may want to check out the ejector box and spring, it may also have been worn short with or be clogged with old grease and dirt behind the spring. I assume the extractor is somewhat firm and does not rattle on the bolt? You have a nice strong follower spring, not a weak one. It pushes cartridges up, and is firm to load 5 cartridges due to a strong spring. On most imported RCs the follower spring is like new. I found the bolt and extractor to headspace and function like a new rebuilt bolt& rifle.
 
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If that is an RC k98k, most were gummed up with thick cosmo. You may want to check out the ejector box and spring, it may also have been worn short with or be clogged with old grease and dirt behind the spring. I assume the extractor is somewhat firm and does not rattle on the bolt?
It’s a Portuguese 1941 contract. No rattling, I’ve taken every piece apart and cleaned/lubricated with CLP, Hoppes, and/or Ballistol.
 
There is a small flat spring in the ejector box slot that pushes the ejector toward the axis. If it is broken or weak or gummed up there will not enough force to push the ejector into the path of the cartidge base.
 
There is a small flat spring in the ejector box slot that pushes the ejector toward the axis. If it is broken or weak or gummed up there will not enough force to push the ejector into the path of the cartidge base.
Agreed. If the ejector is good (and this one looks fine), it's most likely the spring. Sometimes just rebending it a bit so it puts pressure on the ejector again works.
 
Here are some interesting comments in the linked post. On my RCs, I found that ejector spring is so stiff it's difficult to slide the flat ejector bar back in. If it just slips in easy you make have found your problem. What I see looks like good parts. Use some spray brake cleaner to blast any dirt or grease out from behind the spring. Clean under the spring with a pipe cleaner- any dirt? It looks like an almost new Mauser.


The Mauser has a positive ejector, which is a spring-driven pivoting piece of metal attached to the left rear of the receiver, that moves in behind the case as the bolt is operated,

When the cartridge case, which should be held in place on the bolt via a combination of the extractor's grip on the cartridge rim, and the small rim around the bolt face, impacts the extended ejector and gets pivoted out of the receiver.

If your Mauser is not ejecting, then there could be a variety of reasons:

1) Foreign matter in the bolt face is not allowing the base/rim of the cartridge to fully seat inside the circular edge of the bolt face - clean it in the angle of the boltface rim and the boltface itself.

2) The ejector is either not in the gun, is broken off short (the tip), or bent, so that it can not slide into the cut on the left locking lug when the bolt is withdrawn to the rear - replace the entire unit.(bolt stop, ejector & EJ spring)

3) The EJ spring is missing, broken , or has lost its springiness - replace the entire unit, as above.

4) The bolt is not being moved all the way to the rear, either from short-stroking or interference from a bent/broken EJ plate.

5) Since there are different Mauser extractors available (they all look almost identical, but are not), it could be that the wrong extractor(s) have been installed.
Source:
 

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I
Here are some interesting comments in the linked post. On my RCs, I found that ejector spring is so stiff it's difficult to slide the flat ejector bar back in. If it just slips in easy you make have found your problem. What I see looks like good parts. Use some spray brake cleaner to blast any dirt or grease out from behind the spring. Clean under the spring with a pipe cleaner- any dirt? It looks like an almost new Mauser.



Source:
Im at work until Tuesday morning, but I’ll give it a shot and head to the range!
 
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