Best Place To Get Non Corrosive 8mm Mauser?

Jakeman664 said:
I use PPU for cheap non-corrosive.

Hard to reload now with the lack of affordable primers, brass, and powder.
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Hoard it when you can find it!

At my semi monthly collector’s club meeting last week (small group, usually 40-80 folks) one fellow had 14000 new stock Winchester primers, sr, lr, sp, lp. He wanted $100/thousand, highest I’ve seen so far. Seller opined that his were cheap, would rise to $200-$300 in the next year, if even available. He blamed it all on covid, claimed raw materials were all foreign-sourced. He sold about 1/2 of what he had, but wondered why it didn’t all go in 1st half hour. I was trying to remember what I had on hand………
 
I have no real issue with shooting corrosive in bolt guns. Now that I have a G43 on the way, I'm considering what I want to shoot out of that. Either surplus german as this is pressured correctly? Or should I spring for the PPU ?

I've never shot anything besides Greek HXP out of my Garand, and 2 or 3 clips at that. Semi autos and corrosive make me a little uneasy and apprehensive.

Cleaning of corrosive is definitely a pain, and I can see some shooters paying a little more to save that convince.
 
OP your Russian capture should eat the corrosive and other stuff just fine. I have shoot about 200 rnds of Turk surplus, yes its hot but I haven't cracked a stock yet, so I wouldn't even shy away from that.

You have to, have to clean it right away with something besides oil, to break down the corrosive salts in the primer. IT will develop surface rust in less then 4 to 5 days... I learned my lesson, a few times.
 
bonemorrow98 said:
I have no real issue with shooting corrosive in bolt guns. Now that I have a G43 on the way, I'm considering what I want to shoot out of that. Either surplus german as this is pressured correctly? Or should I spring for the PPU ?

I've never shot anything besides Greek HXP out of my Garand, and 2 or 3 clips at that. Semi autos and corrosive make me a little uneasy and apprehensive.

Cleaning of corrosive is definitely a pain, and I can see some shooters paying a little more to save that convince.
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IMO, if it was my G43 I would just shoot non-corrosive, I do not have the free time of a soldier to clean guns. I've shot corrosive out of my M1 Garand and SKS and never had any issues with rust since I always followed my method. You can also use hot water to flush out the salts as it's really the water that does the work the ballistol oil is nice as it leave a protective coating of oil with the water evaporates but holy Molly does it take so much time to clean gas operated guns.

PPU should cycle fine but its underpowered, I've heard S&B 8mm Mauser is full powered. If you reload you can also mimic German specs as well.
 
BishopofBling said:
IMO, if it was my G43 I would just shoot non-corrosive, I do not have the free time of a soldier to clean guns. I've shot corrosive out of my M1 Garand and SKS and never had any issues with rust since I always followed my method. You can also use hot water to flush out the salts as it's really the water that does the work the ballistol oil is nice as it leave a protective coating of oil with the water evaporates but holy Molly does it take so much time to clean gas operated guns.

PPU should cycle fine but its underpowered, I've heard S&B 8mm Mauser is full powered. If you reload you can also mimic German specs as well.
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I was planning on not shooting the corrosive. My luck, ill miss a spot and rust will get in some gas part.

the tough part to me is getting it dry and oil in all the nooks and crannies I just flushed water into.

The first time I did it, poured water down the barrel while the bolt was still in... Will never do that again.. increased my bolt takedown skills immensely.
 
I have reloaded some Winchester in the past with Sierra FMJ. Nickle sized groups at 100 yards with a old RC I had re-barreled. I have also been shooting PPU with the intention to reload my empties some day. Has anyone else reloaded PPU brass?
 
luftpirate said:
I have reloaded some Winchester in the past with Sierra FMJ. Nickle sized groups at 100 yards with a old RC I had re-barreled. I have also been shooting PPU with the intention to reload my empties some day. Has anyone else reloaded PPU brass?
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Yeah it's fine. Not my reloading setups but I've ran them. Didn't anneal the necks until after the 2nd run. Seems to be good quality brass... and NO I haven't done an analysis. I'd give a few up if someone could run said analysis.

Oh using PPU slugs from Graf&sons. I grabbed bulk bag of both the SP and FMJ varieties when they were cheap and plentiful.
 
luftpirate said:
I have reloaded some Winchester in the past with Sierra FMJ. Nickle sized groups at 100 yards with a old RC I had re-barreled. I have also been shooting PPU with the intention to reload my empties some day. Has anyone else reloaded PPU brass?
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yes, with no problems, annealed after 4x. PPU projectiles I have measured in 7.65 & 8mm tend to run undersize. Norma makes some sweet brass if you can find it!
 
Some of that Portuguese 7.92 ammunition is some of the best military surplus shooting ammunition I've came across. Shot wonderfully in my G43 in my k98k rifles. And never had an issue with it. Plus not corrosive but hard to come by nowadays.
 
Warrior1354 said:
Some of that Portuguese 7.92 ammunition is some of the best military surplus shooting ammunition I've came across. Shot wonderfully in my G43 in my k98k rifles. And never had an issue with it. Plus not corrosive but hard to come by nowadays.
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I think its boxer primed iirc, not sure if It'll fit a LRP as some surplus ammo has weird primer diameters like Taiwanese M2 ball is excellent shooting ammo but the primers hole are slightly oversized.
 
oMenRC51 said:
Thread Resurrection

OP- what did you end up doing?

Know of any Portuguese 8mm? Ammoseek is a bust.
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Lol 3 years ago it was almost impossible to find 70’s port 8mm surplus at a decent price. Now, you can totally forget it unless you win the lottery from a private collector/ammo hoarder. PPU still makes new production 8mm. Aimsurplus.com had some last week. It’s pricey though. Over $21 for 20 rounds.
 
oMenRC51 said:
Thread Resurrection

OP- what did you end up doing?

Know of any Portuguese 8mm? Ammoseek is a bust.
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Your options for non-corrosive are either PPU, S&B, winning big on Portuguese surplus, chancing original German steel case with Zdh30/40 primers, or reloading your own. I can find soft point S&B 8x57 on ammoseek for about 1.05cpr for a 400rd case though. There's still a large amount of corrosive surplus if you don't mind cleaning it.
 
I buy my ammo from www.sgammo.com (free shipping for orders over $200)
8mm is currently $1.10 per round non-corrosive new S&B manufacture (price per 400 rd case, smaller amounts are available for slightly more in price)
8mm corrosive is about $0.62 per round
 
oMenRC51 said:
Guess I’ll get good at cleaning my Hakim 😇
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I've got a hard no corrosive in semi-autos rule, dating back to when 440 round spam cans of x54r were $60. I've done it, but I've also had rust crop up in the nooks and crannies of gas systems that I was absolutely sure I cleaned well enough. Gas blocks in particular.

Antique military semi-autos are not cheap. It's a false economy to feed expensive guns cheap ammo to try and save a few bucks on a range trip. Doubly so now that the crappy corrosive ammo isn't $.12/rd any more.
 
Cyrano4747 said:
I've got a hard no corrosive in semi-autos rule, dating back to when 440 round spam cans of x54r were $60. I've done it, but I've also had rust crop up in the nooks and crannies of gas systems that I was absolutely sure I cleaned well enough. Gas blocks in particular.

Antique military semi-autos are not cheap. It's a false economy to feed expensive guns cheap ammo to try and save a few bucks on a range trip. Doubly so now that the crappy corrosive ammo isn't $.12/rd any more.
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Well said.

In today’s time when corrosive 8mm from the 50’s costs you about .63 cents a round and brand new production is about a dollar…. What’s the point honestly. You risk case ruptures and dead/double strike needing primers, degraded powder that is ridiculously inconsistent. When it was dirt cheap, you could make the concession in bolt guns as they can be cleaned more easily. I used to be so paranoid about the corrosive salts after a shooting session that I would literally take my k98ks fully apart and literally neutralize every mm of the rifle. Would take so much time and effort. When I got older, I decided that my time, effort, peace of mind and safety to myself and my prized firearms are more valuable to me than saving .30-.40 cents a round….
 
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