Remember, if your screwdriver doesn't fit, you can grind or file it to fit. Shorter shank has less chance of slipping. We were required to make our own bits if we didn't want to mess up a workpiece (we were taught that if it was our fault, it was our loss).
You can clamp the bolt shroud (the part that has the safety) in a vise padded with wood and the pull the bolt body and rotate.
Don't do it against nice furniture/fixtures like in the video. We had beat up workbenches and vises.
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1) Heat sink. A heat sink is a threaded tool that goes into the bolt body (we made our heat sinks in the first semester of machine shop). It servfes to absorb some of the heat when the bolt handle is heated.
2) Bolt handle is heated to critcal. it can then be hammered (or bent with pliers)...
German BraMit! Info on suppressed ammunition (David Truby mentions it in his book, Silencers, Snipers & Assassins). If you guys (Karem/Bruce) don't have those pages, lemme now and I'll copy it and send it to you.
Count me in for a copy of Vol IV too.
Since it's a repro, try to find an original and take a caliper to it and see how they're different. If they're identical, then compare the scope bases. Something in the repro setup is off.
You could also sketch both mount and base with measurements and post them here. Maybe someone with an...
Cpl Norton is the expert on USMC Unertl.
Most of that rifle can be cleaned up by you. It's a lot of handwork (no dremel) with sanding blocks and emery paper. Once it's repolished evenly, it can be reblued. Consider taking a NRA Summer Gonnesmything bluing class and if you take it at...
Or it could be the screw hole was too far back on the receiver. Was it drilled/tapped at the factory? How about the mount? Factory or repro? I can see where a repro mount can be off just a tad.
The steel receiver and scope mount shouldn't compress so I think my first speculation is wrong.